The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical TapestriesMenzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
History
The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical Tapestries
Menzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
Needlework; Tapestry
A slight inspection of the inventories of Henry VIII.'s apparel will
convince us of a truth which we should otherwise, readily have
guessed, viz., that no expense and no splendour were spared in the
"swashing costume" of his day. Its general aspect is too familiar to
us to require much comment. We may remark, however, that four several
acts were passed in his reign for the reformation of apparel, and that
all but the royal family were prohibited from wearing "any cloth of
gold of purpure colour, or silk of the same colour," upon pain of
forfeiture of the same and L20 for every offence. Shirt bands and
ruffles of gold were worn by the privileged, but none under the degree
of knight were permitted to decorate their shirts with silk, gold, or
silver. Henry VIII.'s "knitte gloves of silk" are particularly
referred to, and also his "handkerchers" edged with gold, silver, or
fine needlework. These handkerchiefs, wrought with gold and silver,
were not uncommon in the after-times. In the ballad of George
Barnwell, it is said of Milwood--
"A handkerchief she had,
All wrought with silk and gold,
Which she, to stay her trickling tears,
Before her eyes did hold."
In the east these handkerchiefs are common, and it is still a
favourite occupation of the Egyptian ladies to embroider them.
We are surprised now to find to what minute particulars legal
enactments descended. "No husbandman, shepherd, or common labourer to
any artificer, out of cities or boroughs (having no goods of their own
above the value of L10), shall use or wear any cloth the broad yard
whereof passeth 2_s._ 4_d._, or any hose above the price of 12_d._ the
yard, upon pain of imprisonment in the stocks for three days."
It was in a subsequent reign, that of Mary, that a proclamation was
issued that no man should "weare his shoes above sixe inches _square_
at the toes." We have before seen that the attention of the grave and
learned members of the Senate, the "Conscript Fathers" of England, was
devoted to the due regulation of this interesting part of apparel,
when the shoe-toes were worn so long that they were obliged to be tied
up to the waist ere the happy and privileged wearer could set his foot
on the ground. Now, however, "a change came o'er the spirit of the
day," and it became the duty of those who exercised a paternal
surveillance over the welfare of the community at large to legislate
regarding the _breadth_ of the shoe-toes, that they should not be
above "sixe inches square."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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