The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical TapestriesMenzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
History
The Art of Needle-work, from the Earliest Ages, 3rd ed.: Including Some Notices of the Ancient Historical Tapestries
Menzies, Sutherland, active 1840-1883
Needlework; Tapestry
sesterces; and such like of late days stood Prince Nero in 400,000
sesterces, _i.e._ forty millions.' The embrodered long robes of
Servius Tullius, wherewith he covered and arraied all over the image
of Fortune, by him dedicated, remained whole and sound until the end
of Sejanus. And a wonder it was that they neither fell from the image
nor were motheaten in 560 yeares."[5]
It was long before silk was in general use, even for patrician
garments. It has been supposed that the famous Median vest, invented
by Semiramis, was silken, which might account for its great fame in
the west. Be this as it may, it was so very graceful, that the Medes
adopted it after they had conquered Asia; and the Persians followed
their example. In the time of the Romans the price of silk was weight
for weight with gold, and the first persons who brought silk into
Europe were the Greeks of Alexander's army. Under Tiberius it was
forbidden to be worn by men; and it is said that the Emperor Aurelian
even refused the earnest request of his empress for a silken dress, on
the plea of its extravagant cost. Heliogabalus was the first man that
ever wore a robe entirely of silk. He had also a tunic woven of gold
threads; such gold thread as we referred to in a prior chapter, as
consisting of the metal alone beaten out and rounded, without any
intermixture of silk or woollen. Tarquinius Priscus had also a vest of
this gorgeous description, as had likewise Agrippina. Gold thread and
wire continued to be made entirely of metal probably until the time of
Aurelian, nor have there been any instances found in Herculaneum and
Pompeii of the silken thread with a gold coating.
These examples will suffice to show that it was not usually the
_material_ of the ancient garments which gave them so high a value,
but the ornamental embellishments with which they were afterwards
invested by the needle.
The Medes and Babylonians seem to have been most highly celebrated for
their stuffs and tapestries of various sorts which were figured by the
needle; the Egyptians certainly rivalled, though they did not surpass
them; and the Greeks seem also to have attained a high degree of
excellence in this pretty art. The epoch of embroidery amongst the
Romans went as far back as Tarquin, to whom the Etruscans presented a
tunic of purple enriched with gold, and a mantle of purple and other
colours, "tels qu'en portoient les rois de Perse et de Lydie." But
soon luxury banished the wonted austerity of Rome; and when Caesar
first showed himself in a habit embroidered and fringed, this
innovation appeared scandalous to those who had not been alarmed at
any of his real and important innovations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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