The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The fragrance or odor of plants is owing, in nearly all cases, to a
perfectly volatile oil, either contained in small vessels, or sacs
within them, or generated from time to time, during their life, as when
in blossom. Some few exude, by incision, odoriferous gums, as benzoin,
olibanum, myrrh, &c.; others give, by the same act, what are called
balsams, which appear to be mixtures of an odorous oil and an inodorous
gum. Some of these balsams are procured in the country to which the
plant is indigenous by boiling it in water for a time, straining, and
then boiling again, or evaporating it down till it assumes the
consistency of treacle. In this latter way is balsam of Peru procured
from the _Myroxylon peruiferum_, and the balsam of Tolu from the
_Myroxylon toluiferum_. Though their odors are agreeable, they are not
much applied in perfumery for handkerchief use, but by some they are
mixed with soap, and in England they are valued more for their medicinal
properties than for their fragrance.
SECTION II.
"Were not summer's distillations left
A liquid prisoner, pent in walls of glass,
Beauty's effect with beauty were bereft,
Nor it, nor no remembrance what it was;
But flowers distilled, though they with winter meet,
Leese but their show, their substance still lives sweet."
SHAKSPEARE.
The extensive flower farms in the neighborhood of Nice, Grasse,
Montpellier, and Cannes, in France, at Adrianople (Turkey in Asia), at
Broussa and Uslak (Turkey in Asia), and at Mitcham, in England, in a
measure indicate the commercial importance of that branch of chemistry
called perfumery.
British India and Europe consume annually, at the very lowest estimate,
150,000 gallons of perfumed spirits, under various titles, such as eau
de Cologne, essence of lavender, esprit de rose, &c. The art of
perfumery does not, however, confine itself to the production of scents
for the handkerchief and bath, but extends to imparting odor to
inodorous bodies, such as soap, oil, starch, and grease, which are
consumed at the toilette of fashion. Some idea of the commercial
importance of this art may be formed, when we state that one of the
large perfumers of Grasse and Paris employs annually 80,000 lbs. of
orange flowers, 60,000 lbs. of cassia flowers, 54,000 lbs. of
rose-leaves, 32,000 lbs. of jasmine blossoms, 32,000 lbs. of violets,
20,000 lbs. of tubereuse, 16,000 lbs. of lilac, besides rosemary, mint,
lemon, citron, thyme, and other odorous plants in large proportion. In
fact, the quantity of odoriferous substances used in this way is far
beyond the conception of those even used to abstract statistics.
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