The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc. — John Shaqi
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
We are not going to speak of, perhaps, more than a tithe of the plants
that have a perfume--only those will be mentioned that are used by the
operative perfumer, and such as are imitated by him in consequence of
there being a demand for the article, which circumstances prevent him
from obtaining in its genuine state. The first that comes under our
notice is--
ALLSPICE.--The odoriferous principle of allspice, commonly
called pimento, is obtained by distilling the dried fruit, before it is
quite ripe, of the _Eugenia pimenta_ and _Myrtus pimenta_ with water. It
is thus procured as an essential oil; it is but little used in
perfumery, and when so, only in combination with other spice oils; for
scenting soap it is, however, very agreeable, and much resembles the
smell of cloves, and deserves more attention than it has hitherto
received. Mixed in the proportion of two ounces of oil of allspice with
one gallon of rectified spirit of wine, it forms what may be termed
extract of allspice, which extract will be found very useful in the
manufacture of low-priced bouquets.
ALMONDS.
"Mark well the flow'ring almonds in the wood;
If od'rous blooms the bearing branches load,
The glebe will answer to the sylvan reign,
Great heats will follow, and large crops of grain."
VIRGIL.
This perfume has been much esteemed for many ages. It may be procured by
distilling the leaves of any of the laurel tribe, and the kernels of
stone fruit; for trade purposes, it is obtained from the bitter
almonds, and exists in the skin or pellicle that covers the seed after
it is shelled. In the ordinary way, the almonds are put into the press
for the purpose of obtaining the mild or fat oil from the nut; the cake
which is left after this process is then mixed with salt and water, and
allowed to remain together for about twenty-four hours prior to
distillation. The reason for moistening the cake is well understood to
the practical chemist, and although we are not treating the subject of
perfumery in a chemical sense, but only in a practical way, it may not
be inappropriate here to observe, that the essential oil of almonds does
not exist ready formed to any extent in the nut, but that it is produced
by a species of fermentation, from the amygdalin and emulsine contained
in the almonds, together with the water that is added. Analogous
substances exist in laurel leaves, and hence the same course is to be
pursued when they are distilled. Some manufacturers put the moistened
cake into a bag of coarse cloth, or spread it upon a sieve, and then
force the stream through it; in either case, the essential oil of the
almond rises with the watery vapor, and is condensed in the still-worm.
In this concentrated form, the odor of almonds is far from agreeable;
but when diluted with spirit, in the proportion of about one and a half
ounce of the oil to a gallon of spirit or alcohol, it is very pleasant.
[Illustration: Almond.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account