The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The oil of cloves may be obtained by expression from the fresh
flower-buds, but the usual method of procuring it is by distillation,
which is carried on to a very great extent in this country. Few
essential oils have a more extensive use in perfumery than that of
cloves; it combines well with grease, soap, and spirit, and, as will be
seen in the recipes for the various bouquets given hereafter, it forms a
leading feature in some of the most popular handkerchief essences,
Rondeletia, the Guard's Bouquet, &c., and will be found where least
expected. For essence of cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the
proportion of two ounces of oil to one gallon of spirit.
DILL.--Perfumers are now and then asked for "dill water;" it
is, however, more a druggist's article than a perfumer's, as it is more
used for its medicinal qualities than for its odor, which by the way, is
rather pleasant than otherwise. Some ladies use a mixture of half dill
water and half rose water, as a simple cosmetic, "to clear the
complexion."
The oil of dill is procured by submitting the crushed fruit of dill
(_Anethum graveolens_) with water to distillation. The oil floats on the
surface of the distillate, from which it is separated by the funnel in
the usual manner; after the separation of the oil, the "water" is fit
for sale. Oil of dill may be used with advantage, if in small
proportions, and mixed with other oils, for perfuming soap.
EGLANTINE, or SWEET BRIAR, notwithstanding what the
poet Robert Noyes says--
"In fragrance yields,
Surpassing citron groves or spicy fields,"
does not find a place in the perfumer's "scent-room" except in name.
This, like many other sweet-scented plants, does not repay the labor of
collecting its odor. The fragrant part of this plant is destroyed more
or less under every treatment that it is put to, and hence it is
discarded. As, however, the article is in demand by the public, a
species of fraud is practised upon them, by imitating it thus:--
IMITATION EGLANTINE, OR ESSENCE OF SWEET BRIAR.
Spirituous extract of French rose pomatum, 1 pint.
" " cassie, 1/4 "
" " fleur d'orange, 1/4 "
Esprit de rose, 1/4 "
Oil of neroli, 1/2 drachm.
Oil of lemon grass (verbena oil), 1/2 "
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