The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
Now put the clarified suet into the macerating pot, and place it in such
a position near the fire of the greenhouse, or elsewhere that will keep
it warm enough to be liquid; into the fat throw as many flowers as you
can, and there let them remain for twenty-four hours; at this time
strain the fat from the spent flowers and add fresh ones; repeat this
operation for a week: we expect at the last straining the fat will have
become very highly perfumed, and when cold may be justly termed _Pomade
a la Heliotrope_.
The cold pomade being chopped up, like suet for a pudding, is now to be
put into a wide-mouthed bottle, and covered with spirits as highly
rectified as can be obtained, and left to digest for a week or more; the
spirit then strained off will be highly perfumed; in reality it will be
_extract of Heliotrope_, a delightful perfume for the handkerchief. The
rationale of the operation is simple enough: the fat body has a strong
affinity or attraction for the odorous body, or essential oil of the
flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by contact, and becomes itself
perfumed. In the second operation, the spirit has a much greater
attraction for the fragrant principle than the fatty matter; the former,
therefore, becomes perfumed at the expense of the latter. The same
experiment may be repeated with almond oil substituted for the fat.
The experiment here hinted at, may be varied with any flowers that there
are to spare; indeed, by having the macerating bath larger than was
mentioned above, an excellent _millefleur_ pomade and essence might be
produced from every conservatory in the kingdom, and thus we may receive
another enjoyment from the cultivation of flowers beyond their beauty of
form and color.
We hope that those of our readers who feel inclined to try experiments
of this nature will not be deterred by saying, "they are not worth the
trouble." It must be remembered, that very fine essences realize in the
London perfumery warehouses 16_s._ per pint of 16 ounces, and that fine
_flowery-scented_ pomades fetch the same sum per pound. If the
experiments are successful they should be published, as then we may hope
to establish a new and important manufacture in this country. But we are
digressing.
The odor of heliotrope resembles a mixture of almonds and vanilla, and
is well imitated thus:--
EXTRACT OF HELIOTROPE.
Spirituous extract of vanilla, 1/2 pint.
" " French rose pomatum, 1/4 "
" " orange-flower pomatum, 2 oz.
" " ambergris, 1 oz.
Essential oil of almonds, 5 drops.
A preparation made in this manner under the name of _Extract de
Heliotrope_ is that which is sold in the shops of Paris and London, and
is really a very nice perfume, passing well with the public for a
genuine extract of heliotrope.
HONEYSUCKLE or WOODBINE:--
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