The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
"Attar of roses, made in Cashmere, is considered superior to any
other; a circumstance not surprising, as, according to Hugel, the
flower is here produced of surpassing fragrance as well as beauty.
A large quantity of rose-water twice distilled is allowed to run
off into an open vessel, placed over night in a cool running
stream, and in the morning the oil is found floating on the
surface in minute specks, which are taken off very carefully by
means of a blade of sword-lily. When cool it is of a dark green
color, and as hard as resin, not becoming liquid at a temperature
about that of boiling water. Between 500 and 600 pounds' weight of
leaves is required to produce one ounce of the attar."--_Indian
Encyclopaedia._
Pure otto of roses, from its cloying sweetness, has not many admirers;
when diluted, however, there is nothing to equal it in odor, especially
if mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in pure spirit, to form the
esprit de rose. The soap not allowing the perfume to evaporate very
fast, we cannot be surfeited with the smell of the otto.
The finest preparation of rose as an odor is made at Grasse, in France.
Here the flowers are not treated for the otto, but are subjected to the
process of maceration in fat, or in oil, as described under jasmine,
heliotrope, &c.
The rose pomade thus made, if digested in alcohol, say 8 lbs. of No. 24
Pomade to one gallon of spirit, yields an esprit de rose of the first
order, very superior to that which is made by the addition of otto to
spirit. It is difficult to account for this difference, but it is
sufficiently characteristic to form a distinct odor. See the article on
fleur d'orange and neroli (pp. 77, 78), which have similar qualities,
previously described. The esprit de rose made from the French rose
pomade is never sold retail by the perfumer; he reserves this to form
part of his _recherche_ bouquets.
Some wholesale druggists have, however, been selling it now for some
time to country practitioners, for them to form extemporaneous
rose-water, which it does to great perfection. Roses are cultivated to
a large extent in England, near Mitcham, in Surrey, for perfumers' use,
to make rose-water. In the season when successive crops can be got,
which is about the end of June, or the early part of July, they are
gathered as soon as the dew is off, and sent to town in sacks. When they
arrive, they are immediately spread out upon a cool floor: otherwise, if
left in a heap, they heat to such an extent, in two or three hours, as
to be quite spoiled. There is no organic matter which so rapidly absorbs
oxygen, and becomes heated spontaneously, as a mass of freshly gathered
roses.
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