The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
In the previous articles we have endeavored to explain the mode of
preparing the primitive perfumes--the original odors of plants. It will
have been observed, that while the majority can be obtained under the
form of otto or essential oil, there are others which hitherto have not
been isolated, but exist only in solution in alcohol, or in a fatty
body. Of the latter are included all that are most prized, with the
exception of otto of rose--that diamond among the odoriferous gems.
Practically, we have no essential oils or ottos of Jasmine, Vanilla,
Acacia, Tuberose, Cassie, Syringa, Violets, and others. What we know of
these odors is derived from esprits, obtained from oils or fats, in
which the several flowers have been repeatedly infused, and afterwards
infusing such fats or oils in alcohol. Undoubtedly, these odors are the
most generally pleasing, while those made from the essential oils
(_i.e._ otto), dissolved in spirit, are of a secondary character. The
simple odors, when isolated, are called ESSENTIAL OILS or
OTTOS; when dissolved or existing in solution in alcohol, by
the English they are termed ESSENCES, and by the French
EXTRAITS or ESPRITS; a few exceptions prove this rule.
Essential oil of orange-peel, and of lemon-peel, are frequently termed
in the trade "Essence" of orange and "Essence" of lemons, instead of
essential oil or otto of lemons, &c. The sooner the correct nomenclature
is used in perfumery, as well as in the allied arts, the better, and the
fewer blunders will be made in the dispensatory. It appears to the
writer, that if the nomenclature of these substances were revised, it
would be serviceable; and he would suggest that, as a significant,
brief, and comprehensive term, Otto be used as a prefix to denote that
such and such a body is the odoriferous principle of the plant. We
should then have otto of lavender instead of essential oil of lavender,
&c. &c. In this work it will be seen that the writer has generally used
the word OTTO in place of "essential oil," in accordance with
his views. Where there exists a solution of an essential oil in a fat
oil, the necessity of some such significant distinction is rendered
obvious, for commercially such articles are still called "oils"--oil of
jasmine, oil of roses, &c. It cannot be expected that the public will
use the words "fat" oil and "essential" oil, to distinguish these
differences of composition.
There are several good reasons why the odoriferous principle of plants
should not be denominated oils. In the first place, it is a bad
principle to give any class of substances the same signification as
those belonging to another. Surely, there are enough distinguishing
qualities in their composition, their physical character, and chemical
reaction, to warrant the application of a significant name to that large
class of substances known as the aroma of plants!
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