The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
When the chemical nomenclature was last revised, the organic bodies
were little dealt with. We know that we owe this universal "oil" to the
old alchemist, much in the same way as "spirit" has been used, but a
little consideration quickly indicates the folly of its continued use.
We can no longer call otto of rosemary, or otto of nutmegs, essential
oil of rosemary or nutmegs, with any more propriety than we can term
sulphuric acid "oil" of vitriol. All the chemical works speak of the
odoriferous bodies as "essential" or "volatile" oils, and of the greasy
bodies as "fat" or "unctuous" oils. Oils, properly so called, unite with
salifiable bases and form soap; whereas the essential or volatile oils,
_i.e._ what we would please to call the ottos, do no such thing. On the
contrary, they unite with acids in the majority of instances.
The word oil must hereafter be confined to those bodies to which its
literal meaning refers--fat, unctuous, inodorous (when pure), greasy
substances--and can no longer be applied to those odoriferous materials
which possess qualities diametrically opposite to oil. We have grappled
with "spirit," and fixed its meaning in a chemical sense; we have no
longer "spirit" of salt, or "spirit" of hartshorn. Let us no longer have
almond oil "essential," almond oil "unctuous," and the like.
It remains only for us to complete the branch of perfumery which relates
to odors for the handkerchief, by giving the formulae for preparing the
most favorite "bouquets" and "nosegays." These, as before stated, are
but mixtures of the simple ottos in spirit, which, properly blended,
produce an agreeable and characteristic odor,--an effect upon the
smelling nerve similar to that which music or the mixture of harmonious
sounds produces upon the nerve of hearing, that of pleasure.
THE ALHAMBRA PERFUME.
Extract of tubereuse, 1 pint.
" geranium, 1/2 "
" acacia, 1/4 "
" fleur d'orange, 1/4 "
" civet, 1/4 "
THE BOSPHORUS BOUQUET.
Extract of acacia, 1 pint.
" jasmine, }
" rose triple, } of each, 1/2 "
" fleur d'orange, }
" tubereuse, }
" civet, 1/4 "
Otto of almonds, 10 drops.
BOUQUET D'AMOUR.
Esprit de rose, }
" jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" violette, }
" cassie, }
Extract of musk, } of each, 1/2 "
" ambergris, }
Mix and filter.
BOUQUET DES FLEURS DU VAL D'ANDORRE.
Extrait de jasmine, }
" rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint.
" violette, }
" tuberose, }
Extract of orris, 1 "
Otto of geranium, 1/4 oz.
BUCKINGHAM PALACE BOUQUET.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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