The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The fibrous roots of the _Anthoxanthum muricatum_ being ground,
constitute the sachet, bearing the name as above, derived from the
Tamool name, _vittie vayer_, and by the Parisian _vetiver_. Its odor
resembles myrrh. Vitivert is more often sold tied up in bunches, as
imported from India, than ground, and is used for the prevention of
moth, rather than as a perfume.
VIOLET SACHET.
Black-currant leaves (_casse_), 1 lb.
Rose heels or leaves, 1 lb.
Orris-root powder, 2 lbs.
Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm.
Grain musk, 1 "
Gum benzoin, in powder, 1/2 lb.
Well mix the ingredients by sifting; keep them together for a week in a
glass or porcelain jar before offering for sale.
There are many other sachets manufactured besides those already given,
but for actual trade purposes there is no advantage in keeping a greater
variety than those named. There are, however, many other substances used
in a similar way; the most popular is the
PEAU D'ESPAGNE.
Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish skin, is nothing more than highly perfumed
leather. Good sound pieces of wash leather are to be steeped in a
mixture of ottos, in which are dissolved some odoriferous gum-resins,
thus:--Otto of neroli, otto of rose, santal, of each half an ounce; otto
of lavender, verbena, bergamot, of each a quarter of an ounce; otto of
cloves and cinnamon, of each two drachms; with any others thought fit.
In this mixture dissolve about two ounces of gum benzoin; now place the
skin to steep in it for a day or so, then hang it over a line to dry. A
paste is now to be made by rubbing in a mortar one drachm of civet with
one drachm of grain musk, and enough solution of gum acacia or gum
tragacantha to give it a spreading consistence; a little of any of the
ottos that may be left from the steep stirred in with the civet, &c.,
greatly assists in making the whole of an equal body; the skin being cut
up into pieces of about four inches square are then to be spread over,
plaster fashion, with the last-named compost; two pieces being put
together, having the civet plaster inside them, are then to be placed
between sheets of paper, weighed or pressed, and left to dry thus for a
week; finally, each double skin, now called peau d'Espagne, is to be
enveloped in some pretty silk or satin, and finished off to the taste of
the vender.
Skin or leather thus prepared evolves a pleasant odor for years, and
hence they are frequently called "the inexhaustible sachet." Being
flat, they are much used for perfuming writing-paper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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