The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
The lasting odor of Russia leather is familiar to all and pleasing to
many; its perfume is due to the aromatic saunders-wood with which it is
tanned, and to the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree, with
which it is curried. The odor of Russia leather is, however, not
_recherche_ enough to be considered as a perfume; but, nevertheless,
leather can be impregnated by steeping in the various ottos with any
sweet scent, and which it retains to a remarkable degree, especially
with otto of santal or lemon-grass (_Verbena_). In this manner the odor
of the peau d'Espagne can be greatly varied, and gives great
satisfaction, on account of the permanence of its perfume.
PERFUMED LETTER-PAPER.
If a piece of peau d'Espagne be placed in contact with paper, the latter
absorbs sufficient odor to be considered as "perfumed;" it is obvious
that paper for writing upon must not be touched with any of the odorous
tinctures or ottos, on account of such matters interfering with the
fluidity of the ink and action of the pen; therefore, by the process of
infection, as it were, alone can writing paper be perfumed to advantage.
Besides the sachets mentioned there are many other substances applied as
dry perfumes, such as scented wadding, used for quilting into all sorts
of articles adapted for use in a lady's boudoir. Pincushions, jewel
cases, and the like are lined with it. Cotton, so perfumed, is simply
steeped in some strong essence of musk, &c.
PERFUMED BOOK-MARKERS.
We have seen that leather can be impregnated with odoriferous
substances, in the manufacture of peau d'Espagne; just so is card-board
treated prior to being made up into book-marks. In finishing them for
sale, taste alone dictates their design; some are ornamented with beads,
others with embroidery.
CASSOLETTES AND PRINTANIERS.
Cassolettes and Printaniers are little ivory boxes, of various designs,
perforated in order to allow the escape of the odors contained therein.
The paste used for filling these "ivory palaces whereby we are made
glad," is composed of equal parts of grain musk, ambergris, seeds of the
vanilla-pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with enough gum acacia, or
gum tragacantha, to work the whole together into a paste. These things
are now principally used for perfuming the pocket or reticule, much in
the same way that ornamental silver and gold vinagrettes are used.
PASTILS.
There is no doubt whatever that the origin of the use of pastils, or
pastilles, as they are more often called, from the French, has been
derived from the use of incense at the altars of the temples during the
religious services:--"According to the custom of the priest's office,
his lot (Zacharias') was to burn incense when he went into the temple
of the Lord." (Luke 1:9.) "And thou shalt make an altar to burn
incense.... And Aaron shall burn thereon sweet incense every morning
when he dresseth the lamps, and at even when he lighteth the lamps he
shall burn incense upon it." (Exodus 30.)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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