The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3) — John Shaqi
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Although their own extravagance is past all question, on September 30th,
1499, Ferdinand and his consort issued a proclamation at Granada, in
which it was commanded that "no persons shall wear clothing of brocade,
or silk, or silk _chamelote_, or _zarzahan_, or taffeta, or carry
linings of the same upon the trappings of their horses, or upon hoods,
or the straps and scabbards of their swords, or bits, or saddles, or
_alcorques_[4] ... nor shall they wear embroidered silk-stuffs
decorated with gold plates, whether such gold be drawn or hammered, spun
to a thread, or interwoven with the fabric."
[4] These are defined by the Count of Clonard as "a kind of clog
(_chapín_) with a cork sole, and which was introduced by the Moors
under the name _al-kork_."
These prohibitions, or others of their import, were ratified by Doña
Juana at the Cortes of Burgos, and, in 1533, by Charles the Fifth at
Valladolid. In 1551 the Emperor again prohibited "all brocaded stuffs,
or gold or silver cloth, whether embroidered or enriched with gold or
silver thread, or bound with cord or edging of the same;" and a royal
edict of January 12th, 1611, forbade the wearing of brocade and every
other costly stuff to all except the clergy and the military.
The clergy, indeed, had always been notorious for extravagance, and not
a few of all these sumptuary laws are aimed specifically at them. In
A.D. 1228 the Council of Valladolid prohibited the use by priests of
sleeved robes, or gilded saddles, bits, spurs, or poitrels. In 1267 the
Synod of León repeated these prohibitions, further insisting that the
garments of the clergy, besides being sleeveless, were not to be red or
green, and were to have a moderate length ("_non muy largas, non muy
cortas_"), and that their cloaks were not to fasten with a clasp or
cord; these regulations to be rigidly adhered to _en sennal de
honestidat_--"as a sign of honesty."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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