The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Another textile fragment in the same collection is coloured black, red,
and grey upon a yellowish ground. It is decorated with long-tailed birds
resembling peacocks, and with sphinxes which fill the circles or
medallions. A third fragment, also in the Vich Museum, belongs to the
type of _pallia cum aquilis et bestiolis_. The design consists of a
double-headed eagle with half-extended wings, holding in the claws of
either foot some kind of quadruped--perhaps a bull. The colour of the
ground resembles carmine, and on it the design is wrought in greenish
black--that may have been originally green--relieved at intervals with
yellow.
The "witches'" _pallium_ in the same collection is decorated with the
series of extraordinary beasts or monsters that have won for it this
title with the vulgar, depicted in yellow, white, black, and dark green
upon a red ground. Miquel believes this fabric to proceed from
Byzantium, and to date from not much earlier than the eleventh century.
The devices are disposed in two rows, the lower containing peacocks
_affrontés_, and the upper a series of fantastic monsters, each of which
possesses a head, two bodies, and four feet--the head being semi-human,
semi-bestial, the double body that of a bird, and the claws those of a
lion or some other formidable quadruped.
The Royal Academy of History at Madrid possesses a fragment of the
costly fabric known as _tiraz_, an eastern word (corrupted by the
Spaniards into _taracea_, _i.e._ embroidery on clothing), which means
the bordering for a royal robe. Such bordering, which contained
inscriptions, or the sultan's name, or both together, is said to have
been first used in Spain by Abderrahman the Second, who ruled from A.D.
825 to 852. "The caliphs of Cordova," says Riaño, "had a place set apart
in their palaces where this stuff was kept: this custom lasted until the
eleventh century, when it disappeared, and was re-established in the
thirteenth century with the kings of Granada." _Tiraz_, in fact, was
both produced and stored in special departments of the Sultan's
palaces[7]; or so we must infer from the following passage by
Ibn-Khaldun. "The places (_almedinas_) where these stuffs were woven
were situated within the palaces of the caliphs, and were known as the
'pavilions of the _tiraz_.' The person at the head of these workshops
was called the superintendent of the _tiraz_: he had charge of both the
weavers and the looms, administered the salaries, and looked to the
quality of the work. This post was entrusted by the princes to one of
the foremost officers of their kingdom, or else to some freedman who
thoroughly deserved their confidence." The same historian adds that the
manufacture of _tiraz_ was conducted in Spain in the same manner as in
the East under the dynasty of the Ommeyades. It is, however, certain
that among the Spanish Moors _tiraz_ was not produced exclusively in
royal factories. Al-Makkari states that in the time of the Somadies and
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