The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Our earliest intelligence respecting textile fabrics of old Spain
derives almost exclusively from Moorish sources, and shows, together
with the silence of Saint Isidore, that until the subjugation of the
Visigoths, the occupants of the Peninsula attached no great importance
to this industry. Under the Moors, the south and east of Spain grew
rapidly famous for the manufacture of all kinds of textile stuffs, and
in particular those of silk. The origin of these silks, or of the most
luxurious and artistic of them, may be traced to Almería. According to
Al-Makkari, what made this Andalusian capital superior to all other
cities of the world was her "various manufactures of silks and other
dress materials, such as the _dibaj_, a silken fabric of many colours,
surpassing, both in quality and durability, all other products made
elsewhere, and also the _tiraz_, a costly stuff whereon are inscribed
the names of sultans, princes, and other personages, and for making
which there used to be no fewer than eight hundred looms. Inferior
fabrics were the _holol_ (a kind of striped silk), and brocades woven
upon a thousand looms, while as many more were employed continually in
making the scarlet stuffs called _iskalaton_. Another thousand produced
the robes called _al jorjani_ (or 'the Georgian'), and yet another
thousand the Isbahani robes, from Isfahan, and yet another thousand the
robes of Atabi. The making of damask for gay-coloured curtains and
turbans for the women kept busy as many persons as the articles
above-mentioned."
Edrisi, a chronicler of the twelfth century, says of the same capital
that she was the principal city belonging to the Moors in the time of
the Moravides. In fact, she was then a great and prosperous industrial
centre, possessing, together with other kinds of looms, eight hundred
which produced the fabrics known as _holla_, _debady_, _siglaton_,
_espahani_, and _djordjani_, curtains with a flowered decoration, cloths
of a smaller size, and the stuffs which were denominated _attabi_ and
_mi djar_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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