The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Toledo silk, including the delicate and costly _cendal_ (see pp. 5, 6)
which is mentioned in the sumptuary law, dated 1348, of Alfonso the
Eleventh, was largely in demand from early in the Middle Ages till about
the sixteenth century. The statements of the older writers as to this
neighbourhood are contradictory. According to Damián de Olivares,
himself a native of Toledo, this city in the sixteenth century possessed
between five thousand five hundred and six thousand looms, consuming
annually more than six hundred thousand pounds of raw silk. Other
authors estimate the number of her looms at twenty, thirty, or even
forty thousand. Writing in our own time, Count Cedillo is responsible
for declaring that after the revolt of the Communities, the persons
occupied in weaving silk amounted to fifty thousand, all of whom were
natives of Toledo and the neighbouring villages; and he adds, perhaps a
little rashly, that the velvets, damasks, satins, and taffetas of this
locality were "unrivalled, even in comparison with the admirable
products of Seville, Cordova, and Granada."[18] Certainly, the silk
stockings of Toledo enjoyed a wide-spread fame, and were used, among
other distinguished patrons, by the Duke of Guise and by Philip the
Second. They were also exported in quantities to America. Banners,
altar-fronts, and vestments for religious worship were also made here in
large numbers, and of excellent quality, both in silk alone, and in this
substance mixed with gold and silver.
[18] _Toledo en el Siglo XVI._ Miquel y Badía says that in the fifteenth
century Toledo, together with Genoa and Venice, manufactured superb
velvets, coloured crimson, blue, purple, or yellow, and figured
with pineapples or pomegranates (Plate iv.). The latter tree and
fruit are commonly related, in Spain, with the city of _Granada_;
but quite apart from this, the pomegranate was formerly regarded as
a symbol of fecundity and life. (See Goblet d'Alviella, _La
Migration des Symboles_, p. 184, and also Madame Errera's
Catalogue, No. 50.) In these velvets the gold thread is woven with
consummate skill, and forms, in the costliest and most elaborate
specimens, a groundwork of exceedingly small rings. These fabrics
were used as hangings for beds and walls, as well as for the
clothing of great lords and ladies. Touching the use of silk for
certain articles of dress, an amusing story is told in the MS.
account of Valladolid, published by Gayangos in the _Revista de
España_. "One day, Don Pedro de Medicis is reported to have paid
a visit to a married lady, to whom he had presented some damask
curtains, and he was wearing at the time some taffeta hose which
made a creaking as he walked. The lady came out of her room, and,
finding him in one of the lower apartments, exclaimed, 'Why do you
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