The foregoing extracts show that under the Spanish Moors the manufacture of textile fabrics attained in mediæval times a very great importance. It is also certain that during the same period the textile fabrics in use among the Christian Spaniards were strongly and continually influenced, and even to a large extent produced, by Spanish Moors, while, as the Moorish cities fell into the power of the enemy, the Christian rulers encouraged their newly-sworn Mohammedan lieges to prosecute this industry with unabated zeal. A privilege is extant which was granted by Jayme the Conqueror in the year 1273, to a Moor named Ali and his sons Mohammed and Bocaron, empowering these artificers to manufacture silk and cloth of gold at Jativa, in the kingdom of Valencia. The fabrics produced by Mussulman weavers such as these, found ready purchase with the wealthier classes of the Christian Spaniards. The dress and other materials thus elaborated possessed a great variety of names, whose meaning cannot always be determined at the present day. Among the fabrics most in vogue were those denominated _samit_ (also _xamed_ or _examitum_), _ciclaton_, _tabis_ or _atabi_, _zarzahan_, _fustian_ or _fustan_, _cendal_ or _sendat_, _camelote_ (also _chamelote_ or _xamellot_), _drap imperial_, and _bougran_ (also _bouckram_, _buckram_), stated by Dr Bock to be derived from Bokhara, and which was of a quality far superior to the buckram of more modern times. These Saracenic or semi-Saracenic stuffs were manufactured from an early period, but modern experts are not agreed as to their character. Miquel y Badía and some other authorities believe that _samit_ was a costly material which was sometimes coloured green, and shot with gold or silver thread. Others believe it to have been a kind of velvet. In either case it is known to have been used for shrouding the bodies of the wealthy. _Ciclaton_ was a strong though flexible material used for robes and also for wall-hangings. _Tabis_ or _atabi_ was a kind of taffeta, and probably consisted, as a general rule, of silk, though sometimes it was mixed with cotton. _Chamelot_ was an oriental fabric of rich silk, coloured white, black, or grey. It is mentioned, together with velvets, taffetas, and _cendal_ or _sendat_ (another silken stuff) in a law passed by the Cortes of Monzón in 1375, and which is quoted in Capmany's _Memorias_.[1] Fustian is thought to have been first produced in Egypt. It was woven of thread or cotton, and was largely used in England from at least as early as the twelfth century. From about the same time buckram was also popular in northern countries. [1] "Perco con los draps d'or é d'argent, é de seda axi brocats d'or é d'argent con altres é velluts, xamelots, tafetanes, é sendats se usen molt de vestir en lo dit Principat d'alguna generalitat ne dret no y sia posat, mes solament vi liners per liura per la entrada."