The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
The colours of these fabrics also varied very greatly. That which was
most admired was probably red, crimson, or carmine, used by preference
as a ground, with the pattern inwoven or super-woven in gold, silver, or
otherwise. Velvets, too, were not invariably in monochrome, but would
contain two or three colours such as purple, crimson, blue, or yellow,
besides gold and silver. Miquel y Badía mentions a magnificent velvet
pluvial in gold and three colours, belonging to a church in Cataluña.
The following observations are by the same authority, who himself
possesses a valuable collection of early textile fabrics, many of which
are Spanish. "The same prevailing colours are found in the Mudejar
textile fabrics as in those of the Spanish Moors--the same ground of red
inclining to carmine, of dark blue, or of bluish green, with a pattern
in yellow, green, blue, or red, according to the colour which combines
with it. I have seen copies of Mudejar stuffs in which there is no
white, because this was wanting in the fragments which the copying
artist had before him. And it is a fact that from some cause, which we
cannot now determine, white silk is that which disappears soonest from
among the textile fabrics of the Spanish Moors and Mudejares, so that by
far the greater part of them contain no white at all, or only traces of
it."
In Spain these handsome stuffs were used by all the wealthier classes,
and some idea of their prevalence and popularity may be formed from the
voluminous mass of sumptuary laws which deal with them at almost every
stage of Spanish history. Thus, an edict of Jayme the First of Aragon
established, in the year 1234, that neither the monarch nor any of his
subjects were to decorate their clothes with gold and silver, or fasten
their cloaks with gold or silver clasps. The _Ordenamiento_ of Alfonso
the Tenth, subscribed at Seville, February 27th, 1256, provides that no
woman is to carry _aljofar_-work, trim her dress with gold or silver, or
wear a _toca_ decorated with those metals, but only a plain white one,
the price of which is not to exceed three _maravedis_. It is also
provided by this edict that on the celebration of a wedding, the cost of
the bridal clothes must not exceed sixty _maravedis_, nor may the number
of guests who sit down to the marriage banquet exceed five women and
five men, besides the witnesses of the ceremony and relatives of the
bride and bridegroom. This absurd law was so extensively neglected that
two years later the Cortes of Valladolid took up the matter afresh, and
even resolved that the expenses of the king's table, without the cost of
his invited guests, were not to exceed a daily total of a hundred and
fifty _maravedis_.
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