The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
In 1877, at the Exhibition of Sumptuary Arts which was held in
Barcelona, a magnificent lace _toca_ was shown, which was affirmed by
its possessor, Señor Parcerisa, to be the work of a Spaniard of the
later part of the fifteenth century, and to have belonged to Isabella
the Catholic. The cathedral of the same city owns three thread-lace albs
of sixteenth century workmanship, and the South Kensington Museum other
pieces of Spanish lace of a comparatively early date, probably made by
nuns and subtracted from the convents during the stormy scenes of 1835.
Dating from the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, we have a number of
notices, though scrappy and inexplicit as a rule, relating to Spanish
lace. One of the more complete and interesting is quoted by Riaño from
the _Microcosmia y Gobierno Universal del Hombre Cristiano_ (Barcelona,
1592) of Father Marcos Antonio de Campos. "I will not be silent," wrote
this austere _padre_, "and fail to mention the time lost these last
years in the manufacture of _cadenetas_, a work of thread combined with
gold and silver; this extravagance and excess reached such a point that
100 and 1000 ducats were spent in this work, in which, besides
destroying the eyesight, wasting away the lives, and rendering
consumptive the women who worked it, and preventing them from spending
their time with more advantage to their souls, a few ounces of thread
and years of time were wasted with so unsatisfactory a result. I ask
myself, after this fancy shall have passed away, will the lady or
gentleman find that the chemises that cost them 50 ducats, or the
_basquiña_ (petticoat) that cost them 300, are worth half their price,
which certainly is the case with other objects in which the material
itself is worth more?"
[Illustration: XXVII
A SPANISH _MAJA_
(_A.D. 1777_)]
Several of the other notices relating to the lace-makers' craft are from
the pen of Countess d'Aulnoy. Of the Countess of Lemos this writer says:
"Her hair was white, but she carefully concealed it beneath a black
blonde"; and of another Spanish lady, Doña Leonor de Toledo, that she
wore "a green velvet skirt trimmed with Spanish blonde." In the
apartments of the young Princess of Monteleón the countess saw "a bed of
green and gold damask, decorated with silver brocade and Spanish blonde.
The sheets were fringed with English point-lace, extremely broad and
handsome." The countess also says that the petticoats of the Spanish
ladies were of English point-lace,[53] and that these ladies, when they
visited each other, wore on their heads "a _toca_ of the richest English
black point-lace, half a yard broad, forming points like the antique
laces, beautiful to look at, and very dear. This head-dress suits them
rarely."
[53] Upon the other hand, a notice dated 1562 says that at that time
Spanish-made black lace was largely used at the Court of England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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