It is impossible to mention Spanish lace without recalling that most graceful article of headwear, the _mantilla_, the use of which is gradually dying out. At present we understand by this word a black or white head-covering of lace alone (the white being more conspicuous and dressy), but about a hundred years ago the _mantilla_ was made of a variety of fabrics. Also, it was worn in an easier and more _negligé_ manner than nowadays, retaining a closer likeness to the _velo_ or _manto_ with which the Spanish women of the seventeenth century were able, at their pleasure, to completely mask their faces (Plates xxvi. and xxvii.). Indeed, as late as the early part of the nineteenth century the _mantilla_ was sometimes thrown over the face (Plates xxviii. and xxix.). The same usage is referred to by Townsend, who describes the _mantilla_ as "serving the double purpose of a cloak and veil."[54] To-day it is worn, not hanging loose and open, but a good deal bunched up at the bosom. The hair, too, is dressed to an unusual height, with a tall comb, and over this the delicate lace covering should droop a little to one side. A flower or two (roses or carnations by preference) may be worn at one side of the head, and where the _mantilla_ is caught up at the breast. [54] "Pour les femmes, elles ne sortent point qu'emmantelées d'une mante noire comme le deüil des dames de France, et elles ne se montrent qu'un [oe]uil, et vont cherchant et agaçant les hommes avec tant d'effronterie, qu'elles tiennent à affront quand on ne veut pas aller plus loin que la conversation."--Bertaut de Rouen; _Journal du Voyage d'Espagne_, p. 294.