The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North AmericaStuck, Hudson
History
The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North America
Stuck, Hudson
McKinley, Mount (Alaska); Mountaineering -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount; Stuck, Hudson, 1863-1920 -- Travel -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount
Our immediate task now lay before us. A ton and a half of supplies had
to be hauled some fifty miles across country to the base of the
mountain. Here the relaying began, stuff being taken ahead and cached at
some midway point, then another load taken right through a day's march,
and then a return made to bring up the cache. In this way we moved
steadily though slowly across rolling country and upon the surface of a
large lake to the McKinley Fork of the Kantishna, which drains the
Muldrow Glacier, down that stream to its junction with the Clearwater
Fork of the same, and up that fork, through its canyon, to the last
spruce timber on its banks, and there we made a camp in an exceedingly
pretty spot. The creek ran open through a break in the ice in front of
our tent; the water-ousels darted in and out under the ice, singing most
sweetly; the willows, all in bud, perfumed the air; and Denali soared
clear and brilliant, far above the range, right in front of us. Here at
the timber-line, at an elevation of about two thousand feet, was the
pleasantest camp of the whole excursion. During the five days' stay here
the stuff was brought up and carried forward, and a quantity of dry wood
was cut and advanced to a cache at the mouth of the creek by which we
should reach the Muldrow Glacier.
It should be said that the short and easy route by which that glacier is
reached was discovered after much scouting and climbing by McGonogill
and Taylor in 1910, upon the occasion of the "pioneer" attempt upon the
mountain, of which more will be said by and by. The men in the Kantishna
camp who took part in that attempt gave us all the information they
possessed, as they had done to the party that attempted the mountain
last summer. There has been no need to make reconnoissance for routes
since these pioneers blazed the way: there is no other practicable route
than the one they discovered. The two subsequent climbing parties have
followed precisely in their footsteps up as far as the Grand Basin at
sixteen thousand feet, and it is the merest justice that such
acknowledgment be made.
At our camp the Clearwater ran parallel with the range, which rose like
a great wall before us. Our approach was not directly toward Denali but
toward an opening in the range six or eight miles to the east of the
great mountain. This opening is known as Cache Creek. Passing the willow
patch at its mouth, where previous camps had been made, we pushed up the
creek some three miles more to its forks, and there established our base
camp, on 10th April, at about four thousand feet elevation. A few
scrubby willows struggled to grow in the creek bed, but the hills that
rose from one thousand five hundred to two thousand feet around us were
bare of any vegetation save moss and were yet in the main covered with
snow. Caribou signs were plentiful everywhere, and we were no more than
settled in camp when a herd appeared in sight.
[Illustration: Entering the range by Cache Creek.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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