The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North AmericaStuck, Hudson
History
The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley): A Narrative of the First Complete Ascent of the Highest; Peak in North America
Stuck, Hudson
McKinley, Mount (Alaska); Mountaineering -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount; Stuck, Hudson, 1863-1920 -- Travel -- Alaska -- McKinley, Mount
steep snow that lay against the cleavage wall and were at last upon the
smooth, unbroken crest of the ridge, we realized that probably the worst
place in the entire climb was behind us.
Steep to the very limit of climbability as that ridge was, it was the
easiest going we had had since we left the glacier floor. The steps were
already cut; it was only necessary to lift one foot after the other and
set the toe well in the hole, with the ice-axe buried afresh in the snow
above at every step. But each step meant the lifting not only of oneself
but of one's load, and the increasing altitude, perhaps aggravated by
the dense vapor with which the air was charged, made the advance
exceedingly fatiguing. From below, the foreshortened ridge seemed only
of short length and of moderate grade, could we but reach it--a
tantalizingly easy passage to the upper glacier it looked as we chopped
our way, little by little, nearer and nearer to it. But once upon it, it
lengthened out endlessly, the sky-line always just a little above us,
but never getting any closer.
[Sidenote: The Cock's Comb]
Just before reaching the steepest pitch of the ridge, where it sweeps up
in a cock's comb,[3] we came upon the vestiges of a camp made by our
predecessors of a year before, in a hollow dug in the snow--an empty
biscuit carton and a raisin package, some trash and brown paper and
discolored snow--as fresh as though they had been left yesterday instead
of a year ago. Truly the terrific storms of this region are like the
storms of Guy Wetmore Carryl's clever rhyme that "come early and avoid
the _rush_." They will sweep a man off his feet, as once threatened to
our advance party, but will pass harmlessly over a cigarette stump and a
cardboard box; our tent in the glacier basin, ramparted by a wall of
ice-blocks as high as itself, we found overwhelmed and prostrate upon
our return, but the willow shoots with which we had staked our trail
upon the glacier were all standing.
Long as it was, the slope was ended at last, and we came straight to the
great upstanding granite slabs amongst which is the natural
camping-place in the pass that gives access to the Grand Basin. We named
that pass the Parker Pass, and the rock tower of the ridge that rises
immediately above it, the most conspicuous feature of this region from
below, we named the Browne Tower. The Parker-Browne party was the first
to camp at this spot, for the astonishing "sourdough" pioneers made no
camp at all above the low saddle of the ridge (as it then existed), but
took all the way to the summit of the North Peak in one gigantic stride.
The names of Parker and Browne should surely be permanently associated
with this mountain they were so nearly successful in climbing, and we
found no better places to name for them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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