I. PREPARATION AND APPROACH 3 II. THE MULDROW GLACIER 25 III. THE NORTHEAST RIDGE 53 IV. THE GRAND BASIN 80 V. THE ULTIMATE HEIGHT 92 VI. THE RETURN 117 VII. THE HEIGHT OF DENALI, WITH A DISCUSSION OF THE READINGS ON THE SUMMIT AND DURING THE ASCENT 141 VIII. EXPLORATIONS OF THE DENALI REGION AND PREVIOUS ATTEMPTS AT ITS ASCENT 157 IX. THE NAMES PLACED UPON THE MOUNTAIN BY THE AUTHOR 180 ILLUSTRATIONS Ice fall of nearly four thousand feet by which the upper or Harper Glacier discharges into the lower or Muldrow Glacier (photogravure) _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE The author and Mr. H. P. Karstens 4 Tatum, Esaias, Karstens, Johnny, and Walter, at the Clearwater Camp 8 Striking across from the Tanana to the Kantishna 12 One of the abandoned mining towns in the Kantishna 14 Denali from the McKinley fork of the Kantishna River 16 Entering the range by Cache Creek 18 The base camp at about 4,000 feet on Cache Creek 20 Some heads of game killed at the base camp 22 The Muldrow Glacier. Karstens in the foreground 26 Ascension Day, 1913 30 Bridging a crevasse on the Muldrow Glacier 32 Hard work for dogs as well as men on the Muldrow Glacier 34 The Northeast Ridge shattered by the earthquake in July, 1912 48 Cutting a staircase three miles long in the ice of the shattered ridge 52 The shattered Northeast Ridge 56 Camp at 13,000 feet on Northeast Ridge 60 A dangerous passage 64 The Upper Basin reached at last. Our camp at the Parker Pass at 15,000 feet 72 Above all the range except Denali and Denali's Wife 76 Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter the Grand Basin 82 First camp in the Grand Basin--16,000 feet, looking up 84 Second camp in the Grand Basin--looking down, 16,500 feet 86 Third camp in the Grand Basin--17,000 feet, showing the shattering of the glacier walls by the earthquake 88