Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
All three of the Aiguilles _may_ be accessible, but they _look_ as
inaccessible as anything I have seen. They are the highest summits between
the valleys of the Romanche and the Arc; they are placed slightly to the
north of the watershed between those two valleys, and a line drawn through
them runs, pretty nearly, north and south.
We descended by a rough path from Rieu Blanc to the chalets of La Sausse,
which give the name to the Vallon or Ravine de la Sausse, in which they
are situated. This is one of the numerous branches of the valley that
descends to St. Jean d’Arve, and subsequently to St. Jean de Maurienne.
Two passes, more or less known, lead from this valley to the village of La
Grave (on the Lautaret road) in the valley of the Romanche, viz.:—the Col
de l’Infernet and the Col de Martignare. The former pass was crossed, many
years ago, by J. D. Forbes, and was mentioned by him in his _Norway and
its Glaciers_. The latter one lies to the north of the former, and is
seldom traversed by tourists, but it was convenient for us, and we set out
to cross it on the morning of the 22d, after having passed a comfortable,
but not luxurious, night in the hay, at La Sausse, where, however, the
simplicity of the accommodation was more than counterbalanced by the
civility and hospitality of the people in charge.(94)
[Our object now was to cross to La Grave (on the high road from Grenoble
to Briançon), and to ascend, _en route_, some point sufficiently high to
give us a good view of the Dauphiné Alps in general, and of the grand
chain of the Meije in particular. Before leaving England a careful study
of “Joanne” had elicited the fact that the shortest route from La Sausse
to La Grave was by the Col de Martignare; and also that from the aforesaid
Col it was possible to ascend a lofty summit, called by him the
Bec-du-Grenier, also called Aiguille de Goléon. On referring, however, to
the Sardinian survey, we found there depicted, to the east of the Col de
Martignare, not _one_ peak bearing the above _two_ names, but _two
distinct summits_; one—just above the Col—the Bec-du-Grenier (the height
of which was not stated); the other, still farther to the east, and
somewhat to the south of the watershed—the Aiguille du Goléon (11,250
English feet in height), with a very considerable glacier—the Glacier
Lombard—between the two. On the French map,(95) on the other hand, neither
of the above names was to be found, but a peak called Aiguille de la
Sausse (10,897 feet), was placed in the position assigned to the
Bec-du-Grenier in the Sardinian map; while farther to the east was a
second and nameless peak (10,841), not at all in the position given to the
Aiguille du Goléon, of which and of the Glacier Lombard there was not a
sign. All this was very puzzling and unsatisfactory; but as we had no
doubt of being able to climb one of the points to the east of the Col de
Martignare (which overhung the Ravine de la Sausse), we determined to make
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