Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
that col the basis of our operations.](96)
We left the chalets at 4.15 A.M. [under a shower of good wishes from our
hostesses], proceeded at first towards the upper end of the ravine, then
doubled back up a long buttress which projects in an unusual way, and went
towards the Col de Martignare; but before arriving at its summit we again
doubled, and resumed the original course.(97) At 6 A.M. we stood on the
watershed, and followed it towards the east; keeping for some distance
strictly to the ridge, and afterwards diverging a little to the south to
avoid a considerable secondary aiguille, which prevented a straight track
being made to the summit at which we were aiming. At 9.15 we stood on its
top, and saw at once the lay of the land.
We found that our peak was one of four which enclosed a plateau that was
filled by a glacier. Let us call these summits *A*, *B*, *C*, *D* (see
plan on p. 128). We stood upon *C*, which was almost exactly the same
elevation as *B*, but was higher than *D*, and lower than *A*. Peak *A*
was the highest of the four, and was about 200 feet higher than *B* and
*C*; we identified it as the Aiguille de Goléon (French survey, 11,250
feet). Peak *D* we considered was the Bec-du-Grenier; and, in default of
other names, we called *B* and *C* the Aiguilles de la Sausse. The glacier
flowed in a south-easterly direction, and was the Glacier Lombard.
Peaks *B* and *C* overhung the Ravine de la Sausse, and were connected
with another aiguille—*E*—which did the same. A continuation of the ridge
out of which these three aiguilles rose joined the Aiguilles d’Arve. The
head of the Ravine de la Sausse was therefore encircled by six peaks;
three of which it was convenient to term the Aiguilles de la Sausse, and
the others were the Aiguilles d’Arve.
We were very fortunate in the selection of our summit. Not to speak of
other things, it gave a grand view of the ridge which culminates in the
peak called La Meije (13,080 feet), which used to be mentioned by
travellers under the name Aiguille du Midi de la Grave. The view of this
mountain from the village of La Grave itself can hardly be praised too
highly,—it is one of the very finest road-views in the Alps. The Ortler
Spitz from the Stelvio is, in fact, its only worthy competitor; and the
opinions generally of those who have seen the two views are in favour of
the former. But from La Grave one can no more appreciate the noble
proportions and the towering height of the Meije, than understand the
symmetry of the dome of St. Paul’s by gazing upon it from the churchyard.
To see it fairly, one must be placed at a greater distance and at a
greater height.
I shall not try to describe the Meije. The same words, and the same
phrases, have to do duty for one and another mountain; their repetition
becomes wearisome; and ’tis a discouraging fact that any description,
however true or however elaborated, seldom or never gives an idea of the
reality.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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