ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 287 83. DIAGRAM OF FOG-BOW 289 84. PORTRAIT OF MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER 290 85. THE MANILLA ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 292 86. THE “SECOND” ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 293 87. THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT 294 88. THE END 298 89. THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE 310 90. THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END) 311 91. “THE THINGS WHICH TUMBLE ABOUT THE EARS OF UNWARY 325 TRAVELLERS” MAPS. _To be placed at the end of the Volume._ 1. THE MATTERHORN AND ITS GLACIERS (_in colours_). 2. THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT; AND THE CENTRAL PENNINE ALPS. The body of the work has been printed by Messrs. WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS; and the separate Plates have been printed by the AUTHOR. THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN [Illustration: BEACHY HEAD.] CHAPTER I. On the 23d of July 1860, I started for my first tour in the Alps. As we steamed out into the Channel, Beachy Head came into view, and recalled a scramble of many years ago. With the impudence of ignorance, my brother(4) and I, schoolboys both, had tried to scale that great chalk cliff. Not the head itself—where sea-birds circle, and where the flints are ranged so orderly in parallel lines—but at a place more to the east, where the pinnacle called the Devil’s Chimney had fallen down. Since that time we have been often in dangers of different kinds, but never have we more nearly broken our necks than upon that occasion. In Paris I made two ascents. The first to the seventh floor of a house in the Quartier Latin—to an artist friend, who was engaged, at the moment of my entry, in combat with a little Jew. He hurled him with great good-will, and with considerable force, into some of his crockery, and then recommended me to go up the towers of Notre Dame. Half-an-hour later I stood on the parapet of the great west front, by the side of the leering fiend which for centuries has looked down upon the great city, and then took rail to Switzerland; saw the sunlight lingering on the giants of the Oberland; heard the echoes from the cow-horns in the Lauterbrunnen valley and the avalanches rattling off the Jungfrau; and crossed the Gemmi into the Valais. [Illustration: THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME.]