Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
I do not think that the steepness or the height of this cliff would have
deterred climbers from attempting to ascend it, if it had not, in
addition, looked so repulsively smooth. Men despaired of finding anything
to grasp. Now, some of the difficulties of the south-west ridge came from
the smoothness of the rocks, although that ridge, even from a distance,
seemed to be well broken up. How much greater, then, might not have been
the difficulty of climbing a face which looked smooth and unbroken close
at hand?
A more serious hindrance to mounting the south-west ridge is found in the
dip of its rocks to the west-south-west. The great mass of the Matterhorn,
it is now well ascertained, is composed of regularly stratified
rocks,(177) which rise towards the east. It has been mentioned in the
text, more than once, that the rocks on some portions of the ridge leading
from the Col du Lion to the summit dip outwards, and that fractured edges
overhang.(178) This is shown in the illustrations facing pp. 76 and 84;
and the annexed diagram, Fig. 1, exhibits the same thing still more
clearly. It will be readily understood that such an arrangement is not
favourable for climbers, and that the degree of facility with which rocks
can be ascended that are so disposed, must depend very much upon the
frequency or paucity of fissures and joints. The rocks of the south-west
ridge are sufficiently provided with cracks, but if it were otherwise,
their texture and arrangement would render them unassailable.(179)
[Illustration: Diagrams to show dip of strata on the Matterhorn]
It is not possible to go a single time upon the rocks of the south-west
ridge, from the Col du Lion to the foot of the Great Tower, without
observing the prevalence of their outward dip, and that their fractured
edges have a tendency to overhang; nor can one fail to notice that it is
upon this account the débris, which is rent off by frost, does not remain
_in situ_, but pours down in showers over the surrounding cliffs. Each
day’s work, so to speak, is cleared away; the ridge is swept clean; there
is scarcely anything seen but firm rock.(180)
The fact that the mountain is composed of a series of stratified beds was
pointed out long ago. De Saussure remarked it, and recorded explicitly, in
his _Travels_ (§ 2243), that they “rose to the north-east at an angle of
about 45°.” Forbes noticed it also; and gave it as his opinion that the
beds were “less inclined, or nearly horizontal.” He added, “De Saussure is
no doubt correct.”(181) The truth, I think, lies between the two.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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