Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
I was acquainted with both of the above-quoted passages, but did not turn
the knowledge to any practical account until I re-observed the same fact
for myself. It was not until after my repulse in 1863, that I referred the
peculiar difficulties of the south-west ridge to the dip of the strata;
but when once persuaded that structure and not texture was the real
impediment, it was reasonable to infer that the opposite side, that is to
say the eastern face, might be comparatively easy. In brief, that an
arrangement should be found like Fig. 2, instead of like Fig. 1. This
trivial deduction was the key to the ascent of the Matterhorn.
The point was, Did the strata continue with a similar dip throughout the
mountain? If they did, then this great eastern face, instead of being
hopelessly impracticable, should be quite the reverse.—In fact, it should
be a great natural staircase, with steps inclining inwards; and, if it
were so, its smooth aspect might be of no account, for the smallest steps,
inclined in this fashion, would afford good footing.
They did so, as far as one could judge from a distance. When snow fell in
the summer time, it brought out long, terraced lines upon the mountain;
rudely parallel to each other; inclined in the direction shown
(approximately) upon the figures in the accompanying plate; and the
eastern face, on those occasions, was often whitened almost completely
over; while the other sides, with the exception of the powdered terraces,
remained black—for the snow could not rest upon them.
[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.]
[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.]
THE SPACES BETWEEN THE PARALLEL RED LINES REPRESENT ON AN AVERAGE
A VERTICAL HEIGHT OF ABOUT 60 FEET, BUT, ON ACCOUNT OF
FORESHORTENING, THE HEIGHT BETWEEN THE UPPERMOST LINES IS SOMEWHAT
MORE THAN THIS AMOUNT.
The very outline of the mountain, too, confirmed the conjecture that its
structure would assist an ascent on the eastern face, although it opposed
one on all other sides. Look at any photograph of the peak from the
north-east (or, failing one, the outline facing page 230, which is
carefully traced from one), and you will see that upon the right-hand side
(that facing the Z’Muttgletscher) there is an incessant repetition of
overhanging cliffs, and of slopes all trending downwards; in short, that
the character of the whole of that side is similar to Fig. 1, p. 229; and
that upon the left hand (or south-east) ridge, the forms, as far as they
go, are suggestive of the structure of Fig. 2. There is no doubt that the
contours of the mountain, seen from this direction, have been largely
influenced by the direction of its beds.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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