Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
There is no good reason for employing a rope upon easy rocks, and I
believe that its needless use is likely to promote carelessness. On
difficult rocks and on snow-slopes (frequently improperly called
ice-slopes) it is a great advantage to be tied together, provided the rope
is handled properly; but upon actual ice-slopes, such as that on the Col
Dolent (p. 240), or upon slopes in which ice is mingled with small and
loose rocks, such as the upper part of the Pointe des Ecrins, it is almost
useless, because a slip made by one person might upset the entire
party.(206) I am not prepared to say, however, that men should not be tied
together upon similar slopes. Being attached to others usually gives
confidence, and confidence decidedly assists stability. It is more
questionable whether men should be in such places at all. If a man can
keep on his feet upon an _escalier_ cut in an ice-slope, I see no reason
why he should be debarred from making use of that particular form of
staircase. If he cannot, let him keep clear of such places.(207)
There would be no advantage in discoursing upon the use of the rope at
greater length. A single day upon a mountain’s side will give a clearer
idea of the value of a good rope, and of the numerous purposes for which
it may be employed, than any one will obtain from reading all that has
been written upon the subject; but no one will become really expert in its
management without much experience.
From the Col d’Olen we proceeded down the Combe of the same name to the
chalets of Prerayen, and passed the night of the 6th under the roof of our
old acquaintance, the wealthy herdsman. On the 7th we crossed the Va
Cornère pass, _en route_ for Breil. My thoughts were fixed on the
Matterhorn, and my guides knew that I wished them to accompany me. They
had an aversion to the mountain, and repeatedly expressed their belief
that it was useless to try to ascend it. “_Anything_ but Matterhorn, dear
sir!” said Almer; “_anything_ but Matterhorn.” He did not speak of
difficulty or of danger, nor was he shirking _work_. He offered to go
_anywhere_; but he entreated that the Matterhorn should be abandoned. Both
men spoke fairly enough. They did not think that an ascent could be made;
and for their own credit, as well as for my sake, they did not wish to
undertake a business which, in their opinion, would only lead to loss of
time and money.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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