Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
I sent them by the short cut to Breil, and walked down to Val Tournanche
to look for Jean-Antoine Carrel. He was not there. The villagers said that
he, and three others, had started on the 6th to try the Matterhorn by the
old way, on their own account. They will have no luck, I thought, for the
clouds were low down on the mountains; and I walked up to Breil, fully
expecting to meet them. Nor was I disappointed. About half-way up I saw a
group of men clustered around a chalet upon the other side of the torrent,
and, crossing over, found that the party had returned. Jean-Antoine and
Cæsar were there, C. E. Gorret, and J. J. Maquignaz. They had had no
success. The weather, they said, had been horrible, and they had scarcely
reached the glacier du Lion.
I explained the situation to Carrel, and proposed that we, with Cæsar and
another man, should cross the Théodule by moonlight on the 9th, and that
upon the 10th we should pitch the tent as high as possible upon the east
face. He was unwilling to abandon the old route, and urged me to try it
again. I promised to do so provided the new route failed. This satisfied
him, and he agreed to my proposal. I then went up to Breil, and discharged
Almer and Biener—with much regret, for no two men ever served me more
faithfully or more willingly.(208) On the next day they crossed to
Zermatt.
The 8th was occupied with preparations. The weather was stormy; and black,
rainy vapours obscured the mountains. Towards evening a young man came
from Val Tournanche, and reported that an Englishman was lying there,
extremely ill. Now was the time for the performance of my vow;(209) and on
the morning of Sunday the 9th I went down the valley to look after the
sick man. On my way I passed a foreign gentleman, with a mule and several
porters laden with baggage. Amongst these men were Jean-Antoine and Cæsar,
carrying some barometers. “Hullo!” I said, “what are you doing?” They
explained that the foreigner had arrived just as they were setting out,
and that they were assisting his porters. “Very well; go on to Breil, and
await me there; we start at midnight as agreed.” Jean-Antoine then said
that he should not be able to serve me after Tuesday the 11th, as he was
engaged to travel “with a family of distinction” in the valley of Aosta.
“And Cæsar?” “And Cæsar also.” “Why did you not say this before?”
“Because,” said he, “it was not settled. The engagement is of long
standing, but _the day_ was not fixed. When I got back to Val Tournanche
on Friday night, after leaving you, I found a letter naming the day.” I
could not object to the answer; but the prospect of being left guideless
was provoking. They went up, and I down, the valley.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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