Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Most of the statements current in 1861 respecting these mountains had been
derived from two authors(16)—M. Elie de Beaumont and the late Principal J.
D. Forbes. Their works, however, contained numerous errors in regard to
the identification of the peaks, and, amongst others, they referred the
supremacy to the Mont Pelvoux, the highest point of which they termed the
Pointe des Arcines, or des Ecrins. Principal Forbes erroneously identified
the high peak seen from the valley of St. Christophe, with that seen from
the valley of the Durance, and spoke of both as the Mont Pelvoux, and M.
de Beaumont committed similar mistakes. In point of fact, at the time when
M. de Beaumont and Forbes wrote their respective memoirs, the proper
relation of the Mont Pelvoux to the neighbouring summits had been
determined by the engineers employed on the survey for the map of France,
but their observations were not then accessible to the public, although
they had evidently been seen by M. de Beaumont. This party of surveyors,
led by Captain Durand, made the ascent of Mont Pelvoux from the side of
the Val d’Ailefroide—that is, from the direction of Val Louise—in 1828.
According to the natives of the Val Louise, they got to the top of the
second peak in height, and remained upon it, lodged in a tent for several
days, at a height of 12,904 feet. They took numerous porters to carry wood
for fires, and erected a large cairn on the summit, which has caused the
name of Pic de la Pyramide to be given to their summit.
In 1848, M. Puiseux made the ascent from the same direction, but his Val
Louisan guide stopped short of the summit, and allowed this courageous
astronomer to proceed by himself.(17)
In the middle of August 1860, Messrs. Bonney, Hawkshaw, and Mathews, with
Michel Croz of Chamounix, tried to ascend the Pelvoux, likewise from the
same direction. These gentlemen spent several days and nights upon the
mountain; and, encountering bad weather, only attained a height of 10,430
feet.
M. Jean Reynaud, of whom mention has been made in the preceding chapter,
accompanied the party of Mr. Mathews, and he was of opinion that the
attempt had been made too late in the season. He said that the weather was
usually good enough for high mountain ascents _only_ during the last few
days of July, and the first ones of August,(18) and suggested that we
should attempt to ascend the mountain in the following year at that time.
The proposition was a tempting one, and Reynaud’s cordial and modest
manner made it irresistible, although there seemed small chance that we
should succeed where a party such as that of Mr. Mathews had been beaten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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