Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
At the time that this was taking place on the southern side of the
Matterhorn, an accident occurred on the north-east face by which a life
was lost. Messrs. A. E. Craven and Dr. Moseley (of Boston), with the
guides Peter Rubi and C. Inabnit, left Zermatt at 10.30 P.M. on the night
of August 13, and ascended the mountain by the usual northern route
without stopping at the hut. They reached the summit at 9 A.M. on the
14th, and had returned to within a short distance of the hut, when Dr.
Moseley (who had found it irksome to be tied up, and had frequently wished
to go unroped) untied himself from the rest, doing so entirely upon his
own responsibility. A few minutes later, and within quite a short distance
of the hut, the party had to cross a projecting piece of rock. Rubi went
over first, and planted his axe in position to give firm footing to Dr.
Moseley, who followed. But, unhappily, he declined assistance; placed his
hand on the rock, and endeavoured to vault over it. In doing so he
slipped, lost hold of his axe, and fell with ever accelerating velocity
down almost the whole of the north-east face. He fell about 2000 feet, and
was of course killed on the spot. His body was recovered three days later,
and was interred in the English burying-ground at Zermatt.
Many persons have talked at different times about the possibility of
finding a way up the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt glacier; but
it was not until the year 1879 that a way was found. On September 2-3, Mr.
A. F. Mummery, with the guides ? and ? , succeeded in gaining the
summit by first going up the long buttress of snow which runs out from the
mountain to the Z’Mutt glacier, and then up the rocks above. I have been
unable to procure any details respecting this expedition and my only
information about it has been derived from Mr. Baumann, who followed in
Mr. Mummery’s traces three days later. Mr. Baumann says: “We followed the
long ice-slope to its extreme upper end, then the jagged arête above it
for a short distance, and then deviated a little to the right, climbing by
a secondary rocky ridge descending towards the Stockhi until within an
hour of the summit, when we struck the main Z’Mutt arête and so completed
the ascent by joining the Breil route.”
At the very time that Mr. Mummery was occupied in his expedition, Mr. W.
Penhall, with the guides F. Imseng and L. Sorbriehen, was engaged in a
similar enterprise, and also ascended the Matterhorn from the direction of
the Stockhi. He, however, at the first took a route closer to the
Tiefenmatten glacier, though he at last, like the others, eventually got
upon the main Z’Mutt arête and completed the ascent by following a portion
of the Breil route.
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