Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Neither Mr. Mummery, nor Messrs. Baumann and Penhall, descended by the
routes which they struck out, and in each case the respective parties
descended by the northern or Zermatt route. It is therefore at present
impossible to determine the relative difficulty of the various routes up
the mountain. Still, I think that the great majority of tourists will, as
heretofore, prefer the ordinary Zermatt route, and that comparatively few
will patronize the newly-discovered ones.
The ascent of the Matterhorn has now taken its place amongst those which
are considered fashionable, and many persons get upon it who ought not to
be upon a mountain at all. Although much has been done on both sides of it
to facilitate the routes, and although they are much easier to traverse
than they were in years gone by, it is still quite possible to get into
trouble upon them, and to come utterly to grief. Considering how large a
number of entirely incompetent persons venture upon the mountain, it is
surprising so few meet with accidents; but if the number of accidents
continues to increase at its present rate it will, ere long, not be easy
to find a place of interment in the English churchyard at Zermatt.
*E.* TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST
ASCENT.
No. of Date. Names. Side upon Greatest REMARKS.
Attempt. which Height
the Attempt attained.
was
made, and
Place
arrived at.
1 1858-9. J.-Antoine Breil side 12,650 Several attempts
Carrel. “Chimney.” were made before
J.-Jacques this height was
Carrel attained; the men
Victor Carrel. concerned cannot
Gab. Maquignaz. remember how many.
Abbé Gorret. See p. 46.
1860.
2 July Alfred Zermatt 11,500? Without guides.
Parker. side P. 46-7.
Charles East face.
Parker.
Sandbach
Parker.
3 August V. Hawkins. Breil side 12,992 Guides—J. J.
J. Tyndall. Hawkins got 13,050? Bennen and
to foot of J.-Jacques
“Great Tower,” Carrel. Pp. 47-9.
Tyndall a few
feet higher.
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