Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
45 Mr. Hawkins referred to this place as one of excessive difficulty.
He, however, found it coated with ice; we found it free from ice.
46 I learned afterwards from Jean-Antoine Carrel that they got
considerably higher than upon their previous attempts, and about 250
or 300 feet higher than Professor Tyndall in 1860. In 1862 I saw the
initials of J. A. Carrel cut on the rocks at the place where he and
his comrade had turned back.
47 This man proved to be both willing and useful on lower ground, and
voluntarily accompanied me a considerable distance out of his way,
without fee or reward.
_ 48 Alpine Journal_, 1863, p. 82.
49 See p. 49.
_ 50 Mountaineering in 1861_, pp. 86-7. Tyndall and Bennen were mistaken
in supposing that the mountain has two summits; it has only one.
They seem to have been deceived by the appearance of that part of
the south-west ridge which is called “the shoulder” (l’épaule), as
seen from Breil. Viewed from that place, its southern end has
certainly, through foreshortening, the semblance of a peak; but when
one regards it from the Col Théodule, or from any place in the same
direction, the delusion is at once apparent.
51 The late Principal Forbes was similarly situated while crossing the
same pass in 1842. He described the sounds as rustling, fizzing, and
hissing. See his _Travels in the Alps of Savoy_, second ed., p. 323.
Mr. R. Spence Watson experienced the same upon the upper part of the
Aletsch glacier in July 1863, and he spoke of the sounds as singing
or hissing. See the _Athenæum_, Sept. 12, 1863. The respective
parties seem to have been highly electrified on each occasion.
Forbes says that his fingers “yielded a fizzing sound;” and Watson
says that his “hair stood on end in an uncomfortable but very
amusing manner,” and that “the veil on the wide-awake of one of the
party stood upright in the air!”
52 I have described this tent at length, as frequent application has
been made to me for information on the subject. I would strongly
recommend any person who wishes to have one for long-continued use,
to have one made under his own eye, and to be particularly careful
to test the poles. My experience goes to show that poles which (when
supported upon their extremities) will bear a dead weight of 100
lbs. suspended from their centres, will stand any wind to which they
are likely to be submitted. Ash is, perhaps, the best wood that can
be selected. Tents of this pattern have been used, amongst others,
by Messrs. Freshfield, Moore, and Tucker, in the Caucasus; by the
Rev. W. H. Hawker in Corsica; and by myself in Greenland.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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