Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
27 M. Puiseux, on his expedition of 1848, was surprised, when at
breakfast on the side of the mountain, by a mass of rock of more
than a cubic yard falling like a bomb at his side, which threw up
splinters in all directions.
28 This mountain is the culminating point of the group, and is named on
the French map, Pointe des Ecrins. It is seen from the Val
Christophe, and from that direction its ridges completely conceal
Mont Pelvoux. On the other side—that is, from the direction of La
Bessée or the Val Louise—the reverse is the case: the Pelvoux
completely conceals it.
Unaware that this name was going to be applied to it, we gave the
name Pic des Arcines or des Ecrins to our summit, in accordance with
the traditions of the natives.
29 There are three cols or passes close to Monte Viso on its northern
side, which lead from the valley of the Po into that of the Guil.
The deep notch spoken of above is the nearest to the mountain, and
although it is by far the lowest gap in that part of the chain, and
would seem to be the true Col Viso, it does not appear to be used as
a pass. The second, which I crossed in 1860, has the name Col del
Color del Porco given to it upon the Sardinian map! The third is the
Col de la Traversette; and this, although higher than at least one
of those mentioned above, is that which is used by the natives who
pass from one valley to the other.
30 See Ladoucette’s _Hautes-Alpes_, p. 596.
31 Frequently spelt Breuil.
32 See the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers.
33 There were no guides, properly speaking, in this valley at that
time, with the exception of one or two Pessions and Pelissiers.
34 This face is that on the right hand of the large engraving opposite
p. 46. It is also represented, more prominently, in the engraving
facing p. 227.
35 Mr. Hawkins was unaware that any attempts had been made before his
own, and spoke of it as the first.
_ 36 Macmillan_, 1861.
37 This ridge is seen on the left of the large engraving accompanying
this chapter; and if the reader consults this view, the explanatory
outlines, and the maps, he will be able to form a fair idea of the
points which were attained on this and on the subsequent attempts.
38 Since this time the small peak has received the name Tête du Lion.
The gap is now called the Col du Lion; the glacier at its base, the
Glacier du Lion; and the gully which connects the Col with the
glacier, the Couloir du Lion.
39 By the kindness of its owner, Mr. F. Tuckett.
40 See Appendix A.
41 A view of this place faces p. 76.
42 The guide Bennen must be excepted.
43 The engraving is made after a sketch taken from the rocks of the
Matterhorn just above the Col.
44 J. G. Whittier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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