Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
142 “The stones that are found upon the upper extremities of glaciers
are of the same nature as the mountains which rise above; but, as
the ice carries them down into the valleys, they arrive between
rocks of a totally different nature from their own.”—De Saussure, §
536.
143 One cannot do worse than follow that path.
144 The lower chalet de Lognan is 2½ hours’ walking from Chamounix. From
thence to the summit of the Aiguille d’Argentière, and down to the
village of the same name, occupied 12½ hours.
145 The Col de Zinal or Triftjoch, between the Trifthorn and the Ober
Gabelhorn; and the Col Durand between the last-mentioned mountain
and the Dent Blanche.
For our route from Zinal to Zermatt, see the Map of the Valley of
Zermatt.
146 High above the Glacier de Moming at the foot of the Crête de Milton.
147 Moore’s Journal.
148 Through what is technically called an “ice-fall.”
149 The responsibility, however, did not rest with Croz. His part was to
advise, but not to direct.
150 The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour’s map 3793 mètres,
or 12,444 feet.
151 These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain
ridges, and it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the
summit of a mountain or ridge) to _sound_ with the alpenstock, that
is to say, drive it in, to discover whether there is one or not. Men
have often narrowly escaped losing their lives from neglecting this
precaution. Several instances have been known of cornices having
given way without a moment’s notice, and of life only having been
saved through men being tied together.
These cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and
sometimes take most extravagant forms. See page 32.
152 This opportunity has been taken to introduce to the reader some of
the most expert amateur mountaineers of the time; and a few of the
guides who have been, or will be, mentioned in the course of the
book.
The late Peter Perrn is on the extreme right. Then come young Peter
Taugwalder (upon the bench); and J. J. Maquignaz (leaning against
the door-post). Franz Andermatten occupies the steps, and Ulrich
Lauener towers in the background.
153 See pp. 115 and 190.
154 See p. 141.
155 See pp. 169-171.
156 See pp. 236 and 266.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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