Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
175 Subsequent experiences of others have strengthened this opinion.
176 I prefer to be on the safe side. My impression is that snow cannot
accumulate in large masses _at_ 45°.
177 Upon this subject I beg to refer the reader to the valuable note
furnished by Signor F. Giordano in the Appendix.
178 See pp. 56 and 73.
179 Weathered granite is an admirable rock to climb; its gritty texture
giving excellent hold to the nails in one’s boots. But upon such
metamorphic schists as compose the mass of the great peak of the
Matterhorn, the texture of the rock itself is of little or no value.
180 I refer here only to that portion of the ridge which is between the
Col du Lion and the Great Tower. The remarks would not apply to the
rocks higher up (see p. 75); higher still the rocks are firm again;
yet higher (upon the “Shoulder”) they are much disintegrated; and
then, upon the final peak, they are again firm.
_ 181 Travels through the Alps_, 2nd ed. p. 317.
182 Its position is shown by the letter F, on the right of the outline,
on p. 85. See also Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers.
183 See p. 94.
184 See Frontispiece.
185 See note to p. 95.
186 The ascent of the Grandes Jorasses was made to obtain a view of the
upper part of the Aig. Verte, and upon that account the westernmost
summit was selected in preference to the highest one. Both summits
are shown upon the accompanying engraving. That on the right is (as
it appears to be) the highest. That upon its left is the one which
we ascended, and is about 100 feet lower than the other. A couple of
days after our ascent, Henri Grati, Julien Grange, Jos. Mar. Perrod,
Alexis Clusaz, and Daniel Gex (all of Courmayeur), followed our
traces to the summit in order to learn the way. As far as my
observation extends, such things are seldom done by money-grasping
or spiritless guides, and I have much pleasure in being able to
mention their names. The highest point (13,799) was ascended on June
29-30, 1868, by Mr. Horace Walker, with the guides Melchior
Anderegg, J. Jaun, and Julien Grange.
187 The view of Mont Blanc from a gorge on the south of the Italian Val
Ferret, mid-way between the villages of La Vachey and Praz Sec, and
about 3000 feet above them, is, in my opinion, the finest which can
be obtained of that mountain range anywhere upon the Italian side.
188 The next generation may witness its extinction. The portion of it
seen from the village of Argentière was in 1869 at least one quarter
less in width than it was ten years earlier.
189 This observation is not made without reason. I have seen the head of
one tumble off at a slight tap, in consequence of its handle having
been perforated by an ingenious but useless arrangement of nails.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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