Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
190 I estimate its height at 1200 feet. The triangulation of Capt.
Mieulet places the summit of the pass 11,624 feet above the sea.
This, I think, is rather too high.
_ 191 Wanderings among the High Alps_, 1858.
192 Most of his principal exploits are recorded in the publications of
the Alpine Club.
193 Engraved, by permission, from a photograph by Mr. E. Edwards.
194 Admirably rendered in the accompanying drawing by Mr. Cyrus Johnson.
195 I heard lately of two well-known mountaineers who, under the
influence of sudden alarm, _swallowed their crystals_. I am happy to
say that they were able to cough them up again.
196 Hand specimens of the highest rocks of the Aiguille Verte cannot be
distinguished from granite. The rock is almost identical in quality
with that at the summit of Mont Dolent, and is probably a granitöid
gneiss.
197 The summit of the Aiguille Verte was a snowy dome, large enough for
a quadrille. I was surprised to see the great height of Les Droites.
Captain Mieulet places its summit at 13,222 feet, but I think it
must be very slightly lower than the Verte itself.
198 The Chamounix tariff price for the ascent of the Aiguille is now
placed at £4 _per guide_.
199 It should be said that we received the most polite apologies for
this affair from the chief of the gensdarmes, and an invitation to
lodge a complaint against the ring-leaders. We accepted his
apologies, and declined his invitation. Needless to add, Michel Croz
took no part in the demonstration.
200 Below the second ice-fall the glacier is completely covered up with
moraine matter, and if the _left_ bank is followed, one is compelled
either to traverse this howling waste or to lose much time upon the
tedious and somewhat difficult rocks of Mont Rouge.
201 In glissading an erect position should be maintained, and the point
of the alpenstock allowed to trail over the snow. If it is necessary
to stop, or to slacken speed, the point is pressed against the
slope, as shown in the illustration.
202 Comparison of the Col de Triolet with the Col de Talèfre will show
what a great difference in ease there may be between tracks which
are nearly identical. For a distance of several miles these routes
are scarcely more than half-a-mile apart. Nearly every step of the
former is difficult, whilst the latter has no difficulty whatever.
The route we adopted over the Col de Talèfre may perhaps be
improved. It may be possible to go directly from the head of the
Glacier de Triolet to its right bank, and, if so, at least thirty
minutes might be saved.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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