Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
230 Signor Giordano was naturally disappointed at the result, and wished
the men to start again. _They all refused to do so, with the
exception of Jean-Antoine._ Upon the 16th of July he set out again
with three others, and upon the 17th gained the summit by passing
(at first) up the south-west ridge, and (afterwards) by turning over
to the Z’Mutt, or north-western side. On the 18th he returned to
Breil.
Whilst we were upon the southern end of the summit-ridge, we paid
some attention to the portion of the mountain which intervened
between ourselves and the Italian guides. It seemed as if there
would not be the least chance for them if they should attempt to
storm the final peak directly from the end of the “shoulder.” In
that direction cliffs fell sheer down from the summit, and we were
unable to see beyond a certain distance. There remained the route
about which Carrel and I had often talked, namely to ascend directly
at first from the end of the “shoulder,” and afterwards to swerve to
the left—that is, to the Z’Mutt side—and to complete the ascent from
the north-west. When we were upon the summit we laughed at this
idea. The part of the mountain that I have described upon p. 278,
was not easy, although its inclination was moderate. If that slope
were made only ten degrees steeper, its difficulty would be
enormously increased. To double its inclination would be to make it
impracticable. The slope at the southern end of the summit-ridge,
falling towards the north-west, was _much_ steeper than that over
which we passed, and we ridiculed the idea that any person should
attempt to ascend in that direction, when the northern route was so
easy. Nevertheless, the summit was reached by that route by the
undaunted Carrel. From knowing the final slope over which he passed,
and from the account of Mr. F. C. Grove—who is the only traveller by
whom it has been traversed—I do not hesitate to term the ascent of
Carrel and Bich in 1865 the most desperate piece of
mountain-scrambling upon record. In 1869 I asked Carrel if he had
ever done anything more difficult. His reply was, “Man cannot do
anything much more difficult than that!” See Appendix *D*.
231 The summit-ridge was much shattered, although not so extensively as
the south-west and north-east ridges. The highest rock, in 1865, was
a block of micaschist, and the fragment I broke off it not only
possesses, in a remarkable degree, the character of the peak, but
mimics, in an astonishing manner, the details of its form. (See
illustration on page 284.)
232 It is most unusual to see the southern half of the panorama
unclouded. A hundred ascents may be made before this will be the
case again.
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