Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
233 The substance of Chapter XX. appeared in a letter in the _Times_,
August 8, 1865. A few paragraphs have now been added, and a few
corrections have been made. The former will help to make clear that
which was obscure in the original account, and the latter are,
mostly, unimportant.
234 If the members of the party had been more equally efficient, Croz
would have been placed _last_.
235 Described upon pp. 277-8.
236 Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I
wish to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather
than to indicate extreme inability on the part of Mr. Hadow. The
insertion of the word “absolutely” makes the passage, perhaps,
rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the above
explanation.
237 At the moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were all
close together. Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all
but taut, and the same between all the others, who were _above_.
Croz was standing by the side of a rock which afforded good hold,
and if he had been aware, or had suspected, that anything was about
to occur, he might and would have gripped it, and would have
prevented any mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr. Hadow
slipped off his feet on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the
small of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz’s
axe was out of his reach, yet without it he managed to get his head
uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been in
his hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself and Mr.
Hadow.
Mr. Hadow, at the moment of his slip, was not occupying a bad
position. He could have moved either up or down, and could touch
with his hand the rock of which I have spoken. Hudson was not so
well placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was not taut
from him to Hadow, and the two men fell ten or twelve feet before
the jerk came upon him. Lord F. Douglas was not favourably placed,
and could neither move up nor down. Old Peter was firmly planted,
and stood just beneath a large rock which he hugged with both arms.
I enter into these details to make it more apparent that the
position occupied by the party at the moment of the accident was not
by any means excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over the
exact spot where the slip occurred, and we found—even with shaken
nerves—that _it_ was not a difficult place to pass. I have described
the _slope generally_ as difficult, and it is so undoubtedly to most
persons; but it must be distinctly understood that Mr. Hadow slipped
at an easy part.
238 Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no
time to change our position.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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