Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
In respect to young Peter, it is not possible to speak in the same
manner. The odious idea that he propounded (which I believe emanated
from _him_) he has endeavoured to trade upon, in spite of the fact
that his father was paid (for both) in the presence of witnesses.
Whatever may be his abilities as a guide, he is not one to whom I
would ever trust my life, or afford any countenance.
251 They followed the route laid down upon the map, and on their descent
were in great peril from the fall of a _sérac_. The character of the
work they undertook may be gathered from a reference to p. 100.
252 This, or a subsequent party, discovered a sleeve. No other traces
have been found.
253 See p. 48.
254 See p. 120.
255 Malte-Brun’s _Annales des Voyages_, April 1869.
256 Peter Perrn, the well-known guide, died at Zermatt in the winter of
1873-4.
257 A place on the final peak, about half-way between the “Shoulder” and
the summit.
258 We resume here the account of the proceedings of the Italians who
started from Breil on the 11th of July 1865. See p. 269.
259 The foregoing particulars were related to me by J.-A. Carrel.
260 The following details are taken from the account of the Abbé Amé
Gorret (published in the _Feuille d’Aoste_, Oct. 1865), who was at
Breil when the men returned.
261 See Appendix *E*, attempt No. 1.
262 These terms, as well as the others, Great Staircase, Col du Lion,
Tête du Lion, Chimney, and so forth, were applied by Carrel and
myself to the various points, in consequence of real or supposed
resemblances in the rocks to other things. A few of the terms
originated with the Author, but they are chiefly due to the
inventive genius of J.-A. Carrel.
263 This point is marked by the red letter *E* upon the lower of the two
outlines facing p. 44.
264 I have seen icicles more than a hundred feet long hanging from the
rocks near the summit of the Matterhorn.
265 The words of the Abbé. I imagine that he meant _comparatively easy_.
266 The pace of a party is ruled by that of its least efficient member.
267 See pp. 83-4 and pp. 90-1.
268 A ridge descending towards the Z’Muttgletscher.
269 Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz alone ascended; the others had had
enough and returned. It should be observed that ropes had been
fixed, by J.-A. Carrel and others, over _all_ the difficult parts of
the mountain as high as the shoulder, _before_ the advent of these
persons. This explains the facility with which they moved over
ground which had been found very trying in earlier times. The young
woman declared that the ascent (as far as she went) was a trifle, or
used words to that effect; if she had tried to get to the same
height before 1862, she would probably have been of a different
opinion.
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