Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
This night we fixed our camp high above the tree-line, and indulged
ourselves in the healthy employment of carrying our fuel up to it. The
present rock was not so comfortable as the first, and, before we could
settle down, we were obliged to turn out a large mass which was in the
way. It was very obstinate, but moved at length; slowly and gently at
first, then faster and faster, at last taking great jumps in the air,
striking a stream of fire at every touch, which shone out brightly as it
entered the gloomy valley below, and long after it was out of sight, we
heard it bounding downwards, and then settle with a subdued crash on the
glacier beneath. As we turned back from this curious sight, Reynaud asked
if we had ever seen a torrent on fire, and told us that in the spring the
Durance, swollen by the melting of the snow, sometimes brings down so many
rocks that, where it passes through a narrow gorge at La Bessée, no water
whatever is seen, but only boulders rolling over and over, grinding each
other into powder, and striking so many sparks that the stream looks as if
it were on fire.
We had another merry evening with nothing to mar it; the weather was
perfect, and we lay backward in luxurious repose, looking at the sky
spangled with its ten thousand brilliant lights.
... “The ranges stood
Transfigured in the silver flood,
Their snows were flashing cold and keen,
Dead white, save where some sharp ravine
Took shadow, or the sombre green
Of hemlocks turned to pitchy black,
Against the whiteness at their back.”(26)
[Illustration: Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald]
Macdonald related his experiences over the café noir. He had travelled day
and night for several days in order to join us, but had failed to find our
first bivouac, and had camped a few hundred yards from us under another
rock, higher up the mountain. The next morning he discerned us going along
a ridge at a great height above him, and as it was useless to endeavour to
overtake us, he lay down and watched with a heavy heart until we had
turned the corner of a buttress, and vanished out of sight.
Nothing but the heavy breathing of our already sound asleep comrades broke
the solemn stillness of the night. It was a silence to be felt. Nothing?
Hark! what is that dull booming sound above us? Is that nothing? There it
is again, plainer—on it comes, nearer, clearer; ’tis a crag escaped from
the heights above! What a fearful crash! We jump to our feet. Down it
comes with awful fury; what power can withstand its violence? Dancing,
leaping, flying; dashing against others; roaring as it descends. Ah, it
has passed! No; there it is again, and we hold our breath, as, with
resistless force and explosions like artillery, it darts past, with an
avalanche of shattered fragments trailing in its rear! ’Tis gone, and we
breathe more freely as we hear the finale on the glacier below.(27)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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