Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
There, sure enough, was the cairn he had helped to erect more than thirty
years before. Where was the Pic des Arcines which we were to see? It was
nowhere visible—there was only a great expanse of snow, bordered by three
lower peaks. Somewhat sadly we moved towards the pyramid, sighing that
there was no other to conquer; but hardly had we gone two hundred paces,
before there rose a superb white cone on the left, which had been hidden
before by a slope of snow. We shouted, “The Pic des Arcines!” and inquired
of Sémiond if he knew whether that peak had been ascended. As for him, he
knew nothing, except that the peak before us was called the pyramid, from
the cairn he had, etc. etc., and that it had not been ascended since. “All
right then—face about,” and we immediately turned at right angles for the
cone, the porter making faint struggles for his beloved pyramid. Our
progress was stopped, in the sixth of a mile, by the edge of the ridge
connecting the two peaks, and we perceived that it curled over in a lovely
volute. We involuntarily retreated. Sémiond, who was last in the line,
took the opportunity to untie himself, and refused to come on; said we
were running dangerous risks, and talked vaguely of crevasses. We tied him
up again, and proceeded. The snow was very soft; we were always knee-deep,
and sometimes floundered in up to the waist; but a simultaneous jerk
before and behind always released one. By this time we had arrived at the
foot of the final peak. The left-hand ridge seemed easier than that upon
which we stood, so we curved round to get to it. Some rocks peeped out 150
feet below the summit, and up these we crawled, leaving our porter behind,
as he said he was afraid. I could not resist the temptation, as we went
off, to turn round and beckon him onwards, saying, “Don’t be afraid—follow
me,” but he did not answer to the appeal, and never went to the top. The
rocks led to a short ridge of ice—our plateau on one side, and a nearly
vertical precipice on the other. Macdonald cut up it, and at a quarter to
two we stood shaking hands on the loftiest summit of the conquered
Pelvoux.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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