Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Most tourists obtain their first view of the mountain either from the
valley of Zermatt or from that of Tournanche. From the former direction
the base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, and its ridges and
faces seem to be of prodigious steepness. The tourist toils up the valley,
looking frequently for the great sight which is to reward his pains,
without seeing it (for the mountain is first perceived in that direction
about a mile to the north of Zermatt), when, all at once, as he turns a
rocky corner of the path, it comes into view; not, however, where it is
expected; the face has to be raised up to look at it; it seems overhead.
Although this is the impression, the fact is that the summit of the
Matterhorn from this point makes an angle with the eye of less than 16º,
while the Dom, from the same place, makes a larger angle, but is passed by
unobserved. So little can dependence be placed on unaided vision. The view
of the mountain from Breil, in the Val Tournanche, is not less striking
than that on the other side; but, usually, it makes less impression,
because the spectator grows accustomed to the sight while coming up or
down the valley. From this direction the mountain is seen to be broken up
into a series of pyramidal wedge-shaped masses; on the other side it is
remarkable for the large, unbroken extent of cliffs that it presents, and
for the simplicity of its outline. It was natural to suppose that a way
would more readily be found to the summit on a side thus broken up than in
any other direction. The eastern face, fronting Zermatt, seemed one
smooth, inaccessible cliff, from summit to base. The ghastly precipices
which face the Z’Mutt glacier forbade any attempt in _that_ direction.
There remained only the side of Val Tournanche; and it will be found that
nearly all the earliest attempts to ascend the mountain were made upon the
southern side.
The first efforts to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard, were
made by the guides, or rather by the chasseurs, of Val Tournanche.(33)
These attempts were made in the years 1858-9, from the direction of Breil,
and the highest point that was attained was perhaps as far as the place
which is now called the “Chimney” (cheminée), a height of about 12,650
feet. Those who were concerned in these expeditions were Jean-Antoine
Carrel, Jean Jacques Carrel, Victor Carrel, the Abbé Gorret, and Gabrielle
Maquignaz. I have been unable to obtain any further details respecting
them.
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