Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Shortly after this Professor Tyndall gave, in his little tract
_Mountaineering in 1861_, an account of the reason why he had left Breil,
in August 1861, without doing anything.(49) It seems that he sent his
guide Bennen to reconnoitre, and that the latter made the following report
to his employer:—“Herr, I have examined the mountain carefully, and find
it more difficult and dangerous than I had imagined. There is no place
upon it where we could well pass the night. We might do so on yonder Col
upon the snow, but there we should be almost frozen to death, and totally
unfit for the work of the next day. On the rocks there is no ledge or
cranny which could give us proper harbourage; and starting from Breuil it
is certainly impossible to reach the summit in a single day.” “I was
entirely taken aback,” says Tyndall, “by this report. I felt like a man
whose grip had given way, and who was dropping through the air.... Bennen
was evidently dead against any attempt upon the mountain. ‘We can, at all
events, reach the lower of the two summits,’ I remarked. ‘Even that is
difficult,’ he replied; ‘but when you have reached it, what then? The peak
has neither name nor fame.’”(50)
I was more surprised than discouraged by this report by Bennen. One half
of his assertions I knew to be wrong. The Col to which he referred was the
Col du Lion, upon which we had passed a night less than a week after he
had spoken so authoritatively; and I had seen a place not far below the
“Chimney,”—a place about 500 feet above the Col—where it seemed possible
to construct a sleeping-place. Bennen’s opinions seem to have undergone a
complete change. In 1860 he is described as having been enthusiastic to
make an attempt, and in 1861 he was dead against one. Nothing dismayed by
this, my friend Mr. Reginald Macdonald, our companion on the Pelvoux—to
whom so much of our success had been due, agreed to join me in a renewed
assault from the south; and, although we failed to secure Melchior
Anderegg and some other notable guides, we obtained two men of repute,
namely, Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig, of Zermatt. We met at that
place early in July, but stormy weather prevented us even from passing to
the other side of the chain for some time. We crossed the Col Théodule on
the 5th, in thoroughly unsettled weather—rain was falling in the valleys,
and snow upon the mountains. Shortly before we gained the summit we were
made extremely uncomfortable by hearing mysterious, rushing sounds, which
sometimes seemed as if a sudden gust of wind was sweeping along the snow,
and, at others, almost like the swishing of a long whip: yet the snow
exhibited no signs of motion, and the air was perfectly calm. The dense,
black storm-clouds made us momentarily expect that our bodies might be
used as lightning-conductors, and we were well satisfied to get under
shelter of the inn at Breil, without having submitted to any such
experience.(51)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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