Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
It is fully as important to have proper nails in the boots as it is to
have good boots. The quantity is frequently overdone, and when there are
too many they are absolutely dangerous. Ice-nails, which may be considered
a variety of crampon, are an abomination. The nails should be neither too
large nor too numerous, and they should be disposed everywhere
irregularly—not symmetrically. They disappear one by one, from time to
time; and the prudent mountaineer continually examines his boots to see
that sufficient numbers are left.(3) A handkerchief tied round the foot,
or even a few turns of cord, will afford a tolerable substitute when nails
cannot be procured.
If the beginner supplies himself with the articles which have been named,
he will be in possession of all the gear which is _necessary_ for ordinary
mountain excursions, and if he uses his plant properly he will avoid many
of the disagreeables which are looked upon by some as almost unavoidable
accompaniments of the sport of mountaineering. I have not throughout the
volume ignored the dangers which are real and unavoidable, and say
distinctly that too great watchfulness cannot be exercised at great
altitudes. But I say now, as I have frequently said before, that the great
majority of accidents which occur to mountaineers, especially to
mountaineering amateurs in the Alps, are not the result of unavoidable
dangers; and that they are for the most part the product of ignorance and
neglect. I consider that falling rocks are the greatest danger which a
mountaineer is likely to encounter, and in concluding these prefatory
remarks I especially warn the novice against the things which tumble about
the ears of unwary travellers.
CONTENTS.
1860
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORY.
BEACHY HEAD—DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME—VISP THAL—SCRAMBLING ALONE—THE
WEISSHORN—ST. BERNARD—RASCALLY GUIDE—A VILLAGE CONCERT—STORM ON THE COL DE
LAUTARET
Pages 1-12
1861
CHAPTER II.
THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.
THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR
IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO
MONSIEUR REYNAUD—GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—NATIONAL SENTIMENTS—WE
ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE
OF THE VAUDOIS—FIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD
NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE
PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED
BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN
ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANÇON
13-41
CHAPTER III.
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