Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
The guide Michel Croz had thus been engaged in both of these expeditions
in Dauphiné, and I naturally looked to him for assistance. Mr. Mathews (to
whom I applied for information) gave him a high character, and concluded
his reply to me by saying, “he was only happy when upwards of 10,000 feet
high.”
I know what my friend meant. Croz was happiest when he was employing his
powers to the utmost. Places where you and I would “toil and sweat, and
yet be freezing cold,” were bagatelles to him, and it was only when he got
above the range of ordinary mortals, and was required to employ his
magnificent strength, and to draw upon his unsurpassed knowledge of ice
and snow, that he could be said to be really and truly happy.
Of all the guides with whom I travelled, Michel Croz was the man who was
most after my own heart. He did not work like a blunt razor, and take to
his toil unkindly. He did not need urging, or to be told a second time to
do anything. You had but to say _what_ was to be done, and _how_ it was to
be done, and the work _was_ done, if it was possible. Such men are not
common, and when they are known they are valued. Michel was not widely
known, but those who did know him employed him again and again. The
inscription that is placed upon his tomb truthfully records that he was
“beloved by his comrades and esteemed by travellers.”
At the time that I was planning my journey, my friends Messrs. A. W. Moore
and Horace Walker were also drawing up their programme; and, as we found
that our wishes were very similar, we agreed to unite our respective
parties. The excursions which are described in this and the two following
chapters are mutual ideas which were jointly executed.
Our united programme was framed so as to avoid sleeping in inns, and so
that we should see from the highest point attained on one day a
considerable portion of the route which was intended to be followed on the
next. This latter matter was an important one to us, as all of our
projected excursions were new ones, and led over ground about which there
was very little information in print.
My friends had happily secured Christian Almer of Grindelwald as their
guide. The combination of Croz and Almer was a perfect one. Both men were
in the prime of life;(91) both were endued with strength and activity far
beyond the average; and the courage and the knowledge of each was alike
undoubted. The temper of Almer it was impossible to ruffle; he was ever
obliging and enduring,—a bold but a safe man. That which he lacked in
fire—in dash—was supplied by Croz, who, in his turn, was kept in place by
Almer. It is pleasant to remember how they worked together, and how each
one confided to you that he liked the other so much because he worked so
well; but it is sad, very sad, to those who have known the men, to know
that they can never work together again.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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