Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
We met at St. Michel on the Mont Cenis road, at midday on June 20, 1864,
and proceeded in the afternoon over the Col de Valloires to the village of
the same name. The summit of this pretty little pass is about 3500 feet
above St. Michel, and from it we had a fair view of the Aiguilles d’Arve,
a group of three peaks of singular form, which it was our especial object
to investigate.(92) They had been seen by ourselves and others from
numerous distant points, and always looked very high and very
inaccessible; but we had been unable to obtain any information about them,
except the few words in Joanne’s _Itinéraire du Dauphiné_. Having made out
from the summit of the Col de Valloires that they could be approached from
the Valley of Valloires, we hastened down to find a place where we could
pass the night, as near as possible to the entrance of the little valley
leading up to them.
By nightfall we arrived at the entrance to this little valley (Vallon des
Aiguilles d’Arve), and found some buildings placed just where they were
wanted. The proprietress received us with civility, and placed a large
barn at our disposal, on the conditions that no lights were struck or
pipes smoked therein; and when her terms were agreed to, she took us into
her own chalet, made up a huge fire, heated a gallon of milk, and treated
us with genuine hospitality.
In the morning we found that the Vallon des Aiguilles d’Arve led away
nearly due west from the Valley of Valloires, and that the village of
Bonnenuit was placed (in the latter valley) almost exactly opposite to the
junction of the two.
At 3.55 A.M. on the 21st we set out up the Vallon, passed for a time over
pasture-land, and then over a stony waste, deeply channelled by
watercourses. At 5.30 the two principal Aiguilles were well seen, and as,
by this time, it was evident that the authors of the Sardinian official
map had romanced as extensively in this neighbourhood as elsewhere, it was
necessary to hold a council.
[Illustration: Plan to show route]
Three questions were submitted to it:—Firstly, Which is the highest of
these Aiguilles? Secondly, Which shall we go up? Thirdly, How is it to be
done?
The French engineers, it was said, had determined that the two highest of
them were respectively 11,513 and 11,529 feet in height; but we were
without information as to which two they had measured.(93) Joanne indeed
said (but without specifying whether he meant all three) that the
Aiguilles had been several times ascended, and particularly mentioned that
the one of 11,513 feet was “relatively easy.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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