THE ASSAULT ON MOUNT EVEREST, 1922 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ [Illustration: The Second Climbing Party descending from their record climb. LONDON: EDWARD ARNOLD & C^{o.} ] ------------------------------------------------------------------------ THE ASSAULT ON MOUNT EVEREST 1922 By Brigadier-General Hon. C. G. BRUCE, C.B., M.V.O. AND OTHER MEMBERS OF THE EXPEDITION WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS NEW YORK LONGMANS, GREEN & CO. LONDON: EDWARD ARNOLD & CO. 1923 All rights reserved ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Made and Printed in Great Britain by Butler & Tanner Ltd., Frome and London ------------------------------------------------------------------------ PREFACE The Mount Everest Committee desire to take this opportunity of thanking General Bruce, Mr. Mallory, Captain Finch, Mr. Somervell and Dr. Longstaff for having, in addition to their labours in the field, made the following contributions to the story of an expedition whose chief result has been to strengthen our confidence that the summit of the highest mountain in the world can be attained by man. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ CONTENTS PAGE INTRODUCTION. By SIR FRANCIS 3 YOUNGHUSBAND, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E. THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION By BRIGADIER-GENERAL HON. C. G. BRUCE, C.B., M.V.O. CHAP. I TO THE BASE CAMP 17 II THE ASSAULT ON THE MOUNTAIN 50 III THE RETURN BY KHARTA 77 THE FIRST ATTEMPT By GEORGE H. LEIGH-MALLORY IV THE PROBLEM 121 V THE HIGHEST CAMP 150 VI THE HIGHEST POINT 183 THE ATTEMPT WITH OXYGEN By CAPTAIN GEORGE FINCH VII THE SECOND ATTEMPT 227 VIII CONCLUSIONS 251 IX NOTES ON EQUIPMENT 262 THE THIRD ATTEMPT By GEORGE H. LEIGH-MALLORY