Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
During the winter of 1921–2, the Mount Everest Committee, owing to the
lateness with which the party had returned after the reconnaissance, had
to work at very top speed. They had to collect all the necessary stores
for the party, and not only that, but also to select a suitable
mountaineering team; this was a considerable difficulty. Finally the
party was made up as follows: myself as leader, Colonel E. L. Strutt as
Second-in-Command, and Dr. Longstaff the official doctor and naturalist
of the Expedition. The climbing party pure consisted of Mr. Mallory (of
last year’s Expedition), Dr. Somervell, Dr. Wakefield, and Major Norton.
We had three transport officers, one of whom belonged to the Alpine
Club, and was considered an assistant of the climbing party, Mr. C. G.
Crawford, of the Indian Civil Service. The official photographer was
Captain Noel. Two officers in the Indian Army were attached to the
Expedition as transport officers—Captain J. G. Bruce and Captain C. G.
Morris. Later, on our arrival in Darjeeling, the party was further
reinforced by Major Morshead, who had been one of the survey party of
the previous year, and whose general knowledge of Tibet and of Tibetans
was of great service to us; and last, but not least, Captain George
Finch, who came not only as a most important member of the climbing
party, but also as the scientific expert in charge of the entire oxygen
outfit.
This large party was collected in Darjeeling by the last week in March,
and in a few days we were all ready to make a start. I myself preceded
the party by about a month, arriving in Delhi to interview the Indian
authorities about the 25th of February. Through the kindness of the
Commander-in-Chief, Lord Rawlinson, we were supplied with four young
non-commissioned officers of Captain Bruce’s regiment, the 2nd Battalion
6th Gurkha Rifles, and an orderly of the 1st Battalion 6th Gurkha
Rifles, and right well all these five Gurkhas carried out their duties.
As will be seen later, one of them, Lance-naik Tejbir Bura, very highly
distinguished himself.
I arrived in Darjeeling with Captain Bruce on March 1, and there I found
that our agent in India, Mr. Weatherall, had carried out the
instructions which he had received from England in the most efficient
manner. The large quantity of stores which we had ordered previously
were all beautifully packed and ready for transportation; the tents of
the previous year all mended and in good order; the stores of different
kinds, such as there were, which had been left also from the previous
year, had been put into order; and last and most important, 150 porters
had been collected for our inspection and from whom to make a selection.
He had also for us a large number of cooks to choose from, a most
excellent individual to look after the tents, Chongay, who proved quite
invaluable to us, and a local cobbler who had expressed his willingness
to come with the Expedition.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account