Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The general nature of what lay ahead of us can readily be appreciated
from this point of view. To the right, as you look up, the great
Northern slopes of Mount Everest above the main Rongbuk Glacier are
slightly concave; the North-eastern facet to the left is also concave,
but much more deeply, and especially more deeply in a section of about
1,500 feet above the North Col. Consequently the ground falls away more
suddenly on that side below the ridge. The climber may either follow the
crest itself or find a parallel way on the gently receding face to right
of it. The best way for us, we soon saw, was not to follow the crest of
snow or even the snow-slopes immediately to the right; for these were
merged after a little interval in the vast sweep of broken rocks forming
the North face of the mountain, and at the junction between snow and
rocks was an edge of stones stretching upwards for perhaps 1,500 feet at
a convenient angle. Loose stones that slip as he treads on them are an
abomination to the climber’s feet and only less fatiguing than knee-deep
sticky snow. We presently found those stones agreeably secure; enough
snow lay among them to bind and freeze all to the slope; we were able to
tread on firm, flat surfaces without the trouble of kicking our feet
into snow; no sort of ground could have taken us more easily up the
mountain. The morning, too, was calm and fine. Though it can hardly be
said that we enjoyed the exercise of going up Mount Everest, we were
certainly able to enjoy the sensation so long as our progress was
satisfactory. But the air remained perceptibly colder than we could have
wished; the sun had less than its usual power; and in the breeze which
sprang up on our side, blowing across the ridge from the right, we
recognized an enemy, “the old wind in the old anger,” the devastating
wind of Tibet. The wolf had come in lamb’s clothes. But we were not
deceived. Remembering bitter experiences down in the plains now 10,000
feet below us, we expected little mercy here, we only hoped for a period
of respite; so long as this gentle mood should last we could proceed
happily enough until we should be obliged to fight our way up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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